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View Full Version : How to/DIY: Flush Coolant



EvolvedDSM
07-12-2004, 10:22 PM
This is an easy one ;) Â*I pulled up onto some ramps to allow more room underneath. Â*From under the car, remove the passenger side corner of the undertray (I think it's only five clips). Â*This will expose the radiator drain and plug. Â*Remove the radiator cap (as long as the engine temperature is cool) and grab a drain bucket. Â*Loosen the 10mm plug (circled in red, arrow points to front of car) until there's a steady flow of fluid coming out of the radiator: http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album142/Begin.jpg

Don't take the plug completely out until the flow is almost stopped:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album142/Plug.jpg

Remove the cap from the overflow reservoir and undo the two 10mm bolts holding it down:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album142/Reservoir.jpg

Dump the contents out and rinse out the junk that's settled at the bottom:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album142/Gunk.jpg

Reinstall the reservoir and torque to 44 +/- 9 in-lbs. Â*You can also refill it to somewhere between the Min and Max lines with your desired ratio of coolant/water (see end) and replace the cap.

If you're doing your thermostat (now's really a good time), you'll want to remove a portion of your upper intercooler pipe to expose the housing:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album142/UICP.jpg

Undo the three 10mm bolts and pull up on the upper radiator hose/thermostat housing:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album142/ThermHousing.jpg

Pull the old thermostat out and replace it with the new one (pay attention to its orientation). Â*Clean both sides of the housing and keep them free of coolant. Â*Put a bead of Ultra Gray RTV around the upper housing and reinstall bolts (84 +/- 13 in-lbs). Â*Reinstall the intercooler piping and clamps (53 +/- 9 in-lbs).

The service manual also states to remove the drain plug from the block. Â*I found the plug (you'll need an 8mm allen head to remove it), but getting to it with just your hand is very difficult and I highly doubt getting tools back there is feasible without removing several other items (battery, etc...). Â*This would be an approximate view from the firewall, but without various wires, vacuum lines, etc... in the way:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album142/RearEngine.jpg

I did not remove this plug as I was able to extract about 5 of the 6 quarts of old coolant out of the system. Â*If you do remove this plug, you'll want to use Loctite Blue 242 and torque it to 33 +/- 3 ft-lbs. Â*You could also take off the lines going to the turbo, throttle body and heater core, but I chose not to.

Once all the coolant has been drained, replace the radiator plug and tighten it until snug. Â*If you've replaced the thermostat, let the RTV cure for about an hour. Â*Otherwise, it's time to add the coolant mix to the radiator. Â*The manual calls for anywhere from a 30%-60% concentration of coolant/antifreeze. Â*Remember to use distilled/deionized water (avoid mineral, spring, drinking and (especially) tap water). Â*I went with a 25% mixture and a bottle of Water Wetter.

Once the system is "full" replace the cap, start the car and let it warm up. Â*Rev the engine or go for a short drive and let it cool. Â*Remove the cap when safe and top off the coolant level. Â*It's also a good idea to make sure you've got heat and that your engine temp isn't climbing above normal (aka the halfway point on the stock gauge). Â*If you aren't holding a normal temp and/or have no heat, there may be a pocket of air in the system which should work itself out.

Repeat every 30K miles according to the manual. Â*If you're using Water Wetter like me, you'll want to change it more often as it tends to break down sooner than that.

vtluu
08-30-2004, 12:40 AM
Replaced the coolant yesterday and thanks partly to your instructions, it was a cinch. The only thing I would add is that it's useful to connect a hose to the drain; until I did that some of the coolant would drip onto the underbody cover and spill out at different places. The little bit of hose feeding into the drain bucket keeps things a lot tidier.

EvolvedDSM
08-30-2004, 12:51 PM
Good call :)

thomas
09-03-2004, 08:27 AM
wow, that was a very thorough write-up J! nice pics too. thanx for the info.

Matz
05-09-2006, 10:18 PM
wow, that was a very thorough write-up J! nice pics too. thanx for the info.


Just doing a little searching around before I install my 42DD thermostat housing for my coolant temp sender. I wonder where the pics went? Probably don't need them since it sounds pretty easy, but it still would be cool to see them. :)

vtluu
05-09-2006, 10:27 PM
I replaced the thermostat. Piece of cake.

Matz
05-09-2006, 10:39 PM
I replaced the thermostat. Piece of cake.


But you still have to go through the whole draining process, yeah?

vtluu
05-09-2006, 10:49 PM
I guess in theory you could just drain the coolant until it's below the level of the thermostat. But it's zero effort to drain more coolant. :)

Dr. Evo
05-10-2006, 07:19 AM
I would just drain it all. Might as well change your coolant too.

Dr. Evo
05-10-2006, 07:20 AM
HEY!! 500 posts, I am now a Canyon Racer!!

L8eight
05-10-2006, 09:17 AM
NICE! i am going to be using this one day. so TIA!!

warpspeed
05-19-2006, 02:39 PM
Not that it really matters but all I see are "x" instead of pictures.

vtluu
05-19-2006, 02:42 PM
A lot of us used the NorCalEvo gallery to host images, those were blown away (to be restored eventually, I hope) during the software move.

Matz
05-19-2006, 10:21 PM
I'm going to *try* to do this this weekend so I can get my 42DD thermostat housing installed. I know I keep saying that, but I mean it this time!

Boostd4
06-26-2006, 12:58 PM
I noticed that you didn't add in a "flush" step. I used to do flushes on my hondas when I changed out the coolant. I have 24K on the clock...think a flush is necessary?

MarkSAE
06-26-2006, 01:14 PM
I noticed that you didn't add in a "flush" step. I used to do flushes on my hondas when I changed out the coolant. I have 24K on the clock...think a flush is necessary?


It's kinda hard to flush all the old coolant out of the block if you don't take your water pump off. You can drain your radiator, fill it up completely w/ distilled water, run your engine, and then drain it again. Doing this several times should get most of the old stuff out.

IMO, if your coolant comes out clean, a flush isn't necessary. I just change my coolant more often (every 10k), which is probably equivalent or better to a "flush" every 30k miles.

Boostd4
06-26-2006, 03:35 PM
I noticed that you didn't add in a "flush" step. I used to do flushes on my hondas when I changed out the coolant. I have 24K on the clock...think a flush is necessary?


It's kinda hard to flush all the old coolant out of the block if you don't take your water pump off. You can drain your radiator, fill it up completely w/ distilled water, run your engine, and then drain it again. Doing this several times should get most of the old stuff out.

IMO, if your coolant comes out clean, a flush isn't necessary. I just change my coolant more often (every 10k), which is probably equivalent or better to a "flush" every 30k miles.


Yeah, I kinda had the same thought. So, after reading the previous posts it sounds like its pretty much personal preference on which anti-freeze you use. I was under the impression that we had to use Mitsu's stuff (oh god, the horror of the old Audi days), but its good to hear that I have options.

Matz
07-07-2006, 04:30 PM
haha, I posted here back in May and I still haven't done my coolant... :) Anyone here also remove the plug in the cylinder block like the FSM mentions?

AreSTG
07-09-2006, 08:35 AM
haha, I posted here back in May and I still haven't done my coolant... :) Anyone here also remove the plug in the cylinder block like the FSM mentions?


you do that fuel pump yet? ;)

Matz
07-09-2006, 08:43 AM
haha, I posted here back in May and I still haven't done my coolant... :) Anyone here also remove the plug in the cylinder block like the FSM mentions?


you do that fuel pump yet? ;)


Yah! Check out the post, I updated it...

http://www.norcalevo.net/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=2&topic=10584.0

:)

turbotiger
07-11-2006, 11:14 AM
Don't ever use the coolant flush additive, as that stuff is corrosive and will eat through seals, and cause leaks, especially if your seal is borderline not leaking.

oneillevo
07-02-2007, 10:21 AM
Can you repost pics please, going to do this myself soon and cannot view pictures.

touchmyjagee
07-23-2007, 08:53 PM
found this on socalevo.net

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/Coolant_Change.pdf

trinydex
10-08-2007, 10:41 AM
http://www.norcalevo.net/forum/index.php/topic,22444.0.html

spooolin4g63
03-14-2009, 02:06 PM
are you guys using the mitsubishi long life stuff...?

RREVOVIII
03-14-2009, 02:51 PM
i used Prestone