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View Full Version : INTALL: B&M Short Shifter



trinydex
10-08-2007, 11:56 AM
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=75664


I didn't get to take as many pics for this one as I would've liked to. My battery died during install so I got kind of lazy trying to charge while working then take pics. First off for those who might just want results instead of the process here's what I've found so far.

The throw isn't as short as I thought it would be. It's about 1/3"-1/2" shorter than stock. :dunno: The stock shifter is fairly short and that may be why. The actual shifter measures about 1" shorter in overall length. The throw is fairly smooth. Seems less notchy than the stock one. That may have to do with the new lube, bushings, and general dismantling and reassembling I did.
I haven't tried the 1-2 shift under heavy load yet so don't know if it would help at all. In theory it shouldn't but who knows. The stock shift knob screws on just fine although it comes with it's own shift knob if you prefer.

Now that that's out of the way I'll try and explain as best I can. It's fairly simple to install. I think most monkey wrenches can do it with ease.

Pic #1 - The Parts!

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_c3df03d7.jpg


Console removal for those that don't know and since it's not really documented.

Open the armrest lid and remove the 2 screws highlighted in red.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_35334c96.jpg


You'll need to pop out the IC spray switch and unplug it. You can do this with a flat head or just pull up console piece and pop it from underneath. The areas marked in blue are where 2 clips are that hold the rear portion down. Just pull up and they'll pop off giving you room to get to the IC switch. Once unplugged pull the rear portion up and over the hand brake and put it aside.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_42594ef8.jpg


Now for the front piece. Unscrew the shift knob, pull out the ashtray and remove the screw highlighted in red.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_a7f9c270.jpg


Down by your feet is a seperate piece to the whole thing. There's also one by the passengers feet. Unscrew that plastic screw leaving slack for the screwdriver to pull it out. It literally can be pushed in and pulled out but if it's all the way in it's a little tough to pull out. (not really) After that pull out the housing for the screw. Once that's aside take that small console piece and slide it towards the front of the car to pull it out. You'll notice a round plastic clip holding in the front portion. Push the center dot to release the clips then pull the housing portion out. It may be hard to do and you might end up breaking the tabs like I did. Sorry no better info for this. No pic of the snaps either. On the passengers side the small console piece doesn't have the screw that was on the drivers side. You'll need to pull this one towards you. There's 3 spots it snaps in so feel around to pry them off. Again on the main piece is another round clip piece. Almost ready to come off.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_2150b8cb.jpg


Remove these last 2 screws and you can remove the front portion of the console. Just pull it back a little, lift it up and over the shifter then put it aside. You might want to unplug the plug highlighted in blue to be able to move the piece more freely.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_e06120e3.jpg


Ok, now to the shifter itself. I really had some pics that I now can not find. So I'm using what pics I can to show the process. You have to remove the rear housing bolt and front housing bolt highlighted in red boxes in this pic. The front bolt holds the centering spring along with a lot of washers. When undoing these take note of the order the washers are in. Everything must go back the same way it was on before. You'll need an 8mm allen wrench and a 12mm socket to remove the front bolt. I actually did not pull it all the way out so all of the washers and springs on the left side of the front bolt including the spring were left in place. That leaves only 2 washers on the nut side to remove. The rear bolt requires an open 10mm wrench and a 10mm socket. This however I removed the entire thing.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_38c8a371.jpg


This is where I got screwed. So for anyone doing this please note not all shifter assemblies will be the same! Once the 2 bolts are removed or in the case of the front one I slid it out just enough to pull the "gearshift lever retainer" up and off the shifter. ONLY mine won't come off! Yes they are supposed to. I guess they decided after putting the thing on they'd weld a round cylinder to hold the shift boot but forgot to file the edges! SO, luckily the piece is a part you can order. I did just that and as you can see in the pic there's the part # if you need it. The piece will run you $20 after tax.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_61e7706f.jpg


So if you were one of the lucky one's who got the shifter assembled correctly! then pull that piece off and put it aside for later. Now you have to remove the shifter. It's planted in the base cup at the bottom of the shifter. You'll need to pry the wire open to pull the shifter out. It's really simple, you can use your hands. Pry the wire open and push it in the direction of the arrow to hold it open. There's also a side cup that's by the rear housing bolt. Make sure that and the centering spring are off for removal.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_124e92c0.jpg


With the shifter aside let's prepare to put in the new shifter. First pry off the cups on the base and side of the stock shifter. The easiest approach to take is with a small screwdriver from the outside and wrench it off.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/mURI_temp_d9ec2edc.jpg


With the cups off and everything to the side let's replace the stock bushings on the base of the shifter. The polyurethane bushings I was supplied with are much sturdier and give less with hard throws. You'll see the 4 bushings bolted down around the base. Use a 12mm socket to remove the bolts first.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_ca7a9fe3.jpg


Once the bolts are removed take a small screwdriver and push the metal center housing out of the bushing. After removing the housings I took my screwdriver and pushed the stock bushings in and down to get them out of the base. You can see what they look like seperated in this pic. After removing all 4 of them place the bolt housing in the center of the polyurethane bushings. Then pop those into the base. If they don't fully go in it's ok, it will seat when you start bolting it down. I only had one not go in fully. Once those are in place take the polyU rings supplied and place them under the base under the bushings you just popped in. Start bolting them into place for a sturdier shifter.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_ca7a9fe3.jpg


Ok, I'm out of pics but the rest is cake on out and it's pretty much done anyhow. Clean out the cups you removed and the base shifter cups of grease. Use the supplied lube to lubricate both cups, the base shifter housing(where the wire is), the shifter ball housing, and the gearshift lever retainer. Once those are lubed, start reassembling the shifter the same way you took it off. Make sure to snap the wire back over the base cup to hold it down. Also double check the centering spring is on correctly. The gearshift lever retainer I got was actually a really tight fit compared to stock. Made it tougher to put back together but it still worked. Hopefully I'm the only one that got screwed on this but be ready in case I'm not.

If you have any questions feel free to ask them here or PM me.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_5bd8e114.jpg