120k now and counting...

[nightwalker]

117k now on my Evo. Bought it back in late 04. It's an 03. Had 10k miles on it. It's been through
-2.5 Sierra Nevada winters
-Spun out twice in the snow, one time went into a snow bank
-Did half a season of auto-x and then got lazy and decided to mod instead of auto-x
-Too many late night mountain runs to count
-Too many late night blasts up 80 to Truckee to count
-Drove from Truckee to Fresno to Truckee every weekend for three months
-Since the day I bought it, every on-ramp has been a 7k full throttle romp
-A couple days at Sac raceway, some late night "launch" practicing.

...maintenance.....

-Clutch finally died at 116k.

-Oil changed RELIGIOUSLY every 3k! a couple times at 2700 or 2500 for good measure
If your oil remains dirty looking even after a fresh oil change, you can drain a quart of oil out before you change it and fill it with ATF. Do a low rpm drive with the engine fully warm around the block a couple times, and then drain everything out. The ATF will break down all the deposits and sludge in the engine and you'll have fresh oil again. Don't do this though if your car is burning or leaking oil. It will break down the deposits that are keeping the engine from burning/leaking more oil, and you'll burn and leak EVEN MORE oil! :lol:

You may or may not know this, but if you have to use an aftermarket oil filter, and the parts store hands you a skinny long filter, it's the wrong one. It will fit, but it's made for a regular Lancer. The Evo filter is fat and stubby. WIX makes an awesome filter that you can get from NAPA if you can't get an OEM filter. The anti-drain back valve in the WIX is good. I used a K&N filter once and my car was shuddering at start up in 0 degree weather. I couldn't figure it out, and realized that it was the filter after I did an oil change, and went back to the WIX. Uber expensive K&N filter for the lose. WIX or OEM only for me.

-Sets of tires bought for the car (of course 4 everytime)... Falken Ziex 512/Kuhmo Ecsta ASX/Pirelli P6 Four Seasons/Falken Ziex 912, next set is going to be Sumitomo HTRZ III in a couple thousand miles.
Pirelli P6 four seasons are the absolute suck for tires! Unless you are looking for an all season tire that will perform well in snow but is not a true snow tire, don't buy this tire. On the flip side, I really like the 912s. Great all around tire, with good wear, and quiet ride. (The Kuhmo ASXs were freakin' loud on the highway!) At speed in rain is like "What rain?", and good dry handling to match. Sucks in snow though. Probably the worst of all the all season tires in the snow. Real drivers don't need snow tires, even if you live in it, and drive through it daily in the winter. 8)

-Just did my second timing belt job last week. Main seal started leaking 20k or so after first one. First one was done at 75k. Replaced timing belt, balance belt, front seal, oil pump seal, this time. Checked water pump (replaced at 75k also) and tensioner, idlers but didn't replace them. Should have done the seals when I did the first one.
A little trick I learned from the absolute Gurus in the automotive repair biz is to put a thin layer of silicone on the outside of an oil seal (front/rear main seals, oil pump seal, etc.) and a thin layer of high temp grease on the inside before you install the seal. The silicone on the outside helps prevent damage to the seal and helps it slide in easy. When it dries, the silicone also helps to seal everything better. The grease on the inside part of the seal where it usually contacts a rotating shaft will help keep the seal working longer.

-Going to be doing my fourth complete drivetrain service, along with my fourth coolant service. Always did them religiously at ever 30k together. Have always used diaqueen for entire drivetrain. Coolant is always Preston green mixed 60/40 (water/coolant) with distilled water ONLY.

-On second serpentine belt. NOTE: Delco, Gates Gatorbacks, and Continental belts are probably the best to use. I prefer Conti belts over OEM btw. Awesome belts, but a little hard to come by. This applies to the timing/balance/serpentine belt. I'm using Conti timing and balance belt and a Delco serpentine. The Delco serpentine has shown to be more rugged than my OEM one. The OEM was cracking bad at 50k. The Delco was the replacement and still hasn't started cracking yet.

-Went through 4 HKS filters and 3 Outerwears prefilters made for the HKS filter, then bought a "GST" "Buschur first gen" filter to replace the HKS, but kept the HKS pipe. Now actually, I'm running an APS cold air extension intake and the GST filter is collecting dust in my closet next to the HKS filter, front mesh, intercooler spray bottle, spare tire, jack/tools, stock IC pipes, stock O2 housing, stock injectors, and stock boost solenoid assembly. Stock exhaust and cat are lost in the snow.... some.... where.... not.... here.... :shock:

-Probably have gone through 5 or 6 sets of NGK BPR8ES copper plugs. Can't remember, because I just changed them out when I feel they need to be replaced.

-Seafoamed my car at 90k
This stuff WORKS! If you have your hesitations about using it, don't. Oh, and only use it to suck through a vacuum line, don't pour it into your gas tank, or in your oil like the instructions on the bottle tell you to.

-Going to need brakes all around again.
Don't throw away your factory shims, reuse them, or else your brakes will make noise and squeal and people will infinitely tell you your brakes are bad

-Every oil change, I use a turkey baster to suck up some brake fluid from the reservior (I take it all the way down to the MIN line) and then fill it up with brand new fluid. My brake fluid, even though the car has over 100k miles is as clear as a brand new Evo's.
You can do this with the power steering fluid as well so that it remains clean and doesn't break down. Old fluid that's been progressively breaking down will wear out the steering gear and lead to other problems. I use DEX III or better ATF when I do this. The life of ATF is about 100k miles at about 60 degrees F. As you go past that temperature, the life shortens drastically. At 220 degrees, it's life is less than a third at 60. ATF that's been broken down is basically just gumming up the internals. So it doesn't hurt to have a bottle around to do a little exchange every oil change. Your rack will thank you

-Running on Eibach springs with stock shocks. Ride quality is better than stock, drop is lower than most springs I've seen, and is an even drop, no rake. Going to switch out to something with a more aggressive spring rate because it feels too soft in fast transitions.
When I went to do my alignment, I discovered that I could not get the rear toe back into spec. I do my own alignments, so after beating my head over it, I said fuck it, and took a grinder and widened the oblong hole that the rear eccentric bolt goes through for the toe arm, and viola! Got my toe back in spec!

some tidbits...

Helix cam gears cracked on me, and started making a horrible "shuunk, shuunk, shuunk" noise. Took them out and put stockers back in. Fuck it!
Helix gears are made of aluminum, and after taking them out and inspecting them, I found that there is very little material between the "spokes". This is going to be a key thing to look for personally when I buy my next set of gears. Stock is fine for me now. If you have Helix cam gears, get rid of them now.

I've broken my Injen lower IC pipe doing excessively rough mountain roads. It cracked pretty bad.
The Injen lower IC pipe, and others built like it don't have enough flex from the rubber couplers and over time will stress the welds and pipe enough to where it will crack. Take a look at the AMS lower IC pipe and you'll understand what I'm talking about. That's what I replaced it with

All the mesh in front of my bumper I ripped out because they weren't black anymore from all the gravel and pebbles on 80 smashing against my car during the winter snow driving.

Spent 2 hours painstakingly "dotting" in rock chips on my front end with a touch up pen because I knew a paint job wasn't going to last me, and I couldn't stand looking at the white specks against the red paint. :x

Have a set of spare rear arms I got off E-bay.... because I was living in snow country... and I liked to do a bit of "touge" in the snow.....

Bent my original set of Enkeis. The ones on my car now came from Dee (IncrEVOVIII) I think is his screen name.

...more to come when I can re-collect it.... :P

This car is expensive to own, and that's before mods. :?

I'll also add, that the car has been awesome and super reliable. I drive my daughter around in it all the time and she likes it just fine. Aside from what I did to it, and the maintenance, it hasn't given me any problems.

[willitas34]

what a warrior :lol:

[player67]

thats badass man, these kind of stories give your evo alot of character imho, sure you'll probably get a couple bucks for the thing if you trade it in :lol: but thats badass props to you

[MadEvo]

Welcome to the 100K club :D

[DoggDicker]

Dang...another 2k and you will have passed my mileage by 100k...

DD

[island_671]

daily driven evo's ftw!

[nightwalker]

Daily driven, and beat'n... 118 coming in a couple days. At 200k, I'm taking the engine apart to do a full inspection figure out what kind of rebuild I'm going to do and I'll record the findings then.

Can you say 4G63>all other turbo 4's!

[nightwalker]

Hit 120,482 today. Been driving a slipping clutch since 116k. It's really bad now. ACT MB7-HDSS and lightweight flywheel has been ordered and should be here in a couple days. Damn, shit for this car is expensive! Also bought two tins of Diaqueen (sae 90-gl5 and 75w-90 gl4), real main seal, and the two o-rings that go in between the trans and transfer case. Would have liked to install the whiteline steering precision kit, but spent too much money already.

Also bought a used Evo9 turbo from 1SloEvo. Turbo ended up having chips in the compressor wheel. Fortunately there is no shaft play. Measurements are ok. Checked it against my other 8 turbo with less than 10k on it, and the measurements are almost identical.

In the process, I ordered up a new 9 compressor wheel and housing because I'm going to experiment a little with porting. Well, it turns out that turning an 8 turbo into a 9 turbo is just changing the compressor wheel and housing. Attaining the o-ring and C clip, and having the whole assembly balanced. If you can find the parts for a good price, you don't have to spend the extra money for a 9 turbo.

With the Perrin upper IC pipe, AMS lower, HKS intake, APS intake, Helix cams, PTE880cc injectors, 9 turbo, ported hotside and compressor, ported exhaust manifold, new throttle body shaft seals, Edge racing O2 housing, TBE, and lighweight flywheel, I hope to do 300+ at the wheels.

The goal is a nice useable and broad power band for late night mountain runs, and auto-x.

Future project will be uprated head studs, and rod bolts, and run E-85 on a second map once more stations become available.

[MadEvo]

Kool. You're catching up to me. :D

I'm currently at 128k + and I hardly drive anymore. Taking advantage of BART to work ;)

[1SloEvo]

Nice. That's very impressive! These motors can't handle some insane abuse.

Sorry to hear about the turbo having shavings in it. I didn't really do too much inspecting inside the compressor housing itself. Just checked the shaft play of it...which as you mentioned was minimal. Can't wait to see this thing laying down some good power with this many miles. :)

[nightwalker]

Just installed ACT clutch and flywheel. Also changed out rear main seal, and the two o-rings between the transfer case and tranny.

If you want a nice clutch job, clean everything out, lube up the contact points, and get some emery cloth and cross hatch the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. It will help the clutch break in and mesh them up better.

Also removed the subframe and rack and installed some bushings while it was out. Cleaned the back of the block, subframe, tranny, and transfercase. Good as new.

BTW, unless you absolutely want to do a clutch yourself so you can give your car the extra tender love and care, don't. It's a heck of a job.

I'm off to do some porting now. :D

[ApexVIII]

nice! lol im at 123k im my 95 Eclispe GSX

[lncrevoviii]

Nice 1 Phia!
Keep it running strong. :thumbsup:

[overdrive]

Very impressive bro.

You got one well maintained EVO right there!

[TcJayLee]

Your car is a beast. I salute you soldier.

[pjb00stin]

sweeet!how's the compresion?what weight oil are you running?any valvetrain noise?

[nightwalker]

I'll probably check the compression when I get my Denso plugs. I've always run 5w30. Never ran 10w30.

I did notice that the center diff fluid is always darker every time I change the drive train fluids. I might change it up and do the center diff at every 15k and the trans and rear at ever 30k.

I'm going to share a bit of battery knowledge, since a lot of guys are buying mini batteries and having them die in a year or less.

Every time we install a battery at the shop, we do what is called an install charge. We charge the battery for 15 minutes at 10amps. This is for a regular lead acid battery. We do this because batteries do sit on shelves for awhile, and a lot of them are not fully charged. Contrary to popular belief, an alternator (generator) does not charge a battery. It just maintains it.

Mini batteries are AGM batteries from what I know, and some are gel. An AGM battery is still lead acid, but instead of just plates, and acid fluid, there is fiberglass cloth in between the plates and the acid is absorbed into this cloth. Gel batteries have gel instead of the fiberglass cloth.

The big precaution with AGM and gel batteries is that you CANNOT jump start or charge them at higher than 5 amps without running a risk of damaging them. If you absolutely have to jump a car with one of these batteries, don't run the negative clamp to the battery, clamp it onto a chassis ground instead. Charging these batteries at high amps causes little explosions inside them, and you just ruined your battery, which in turn drastically shortens it's life.

To check if you have a fully charged battery, just grab a volt meter. A perfect batter should have 12.6 volts, no more, no less. If it doesn't have 12.6 volts, you want to charge it until it does. The best way to charge it is to put it on a low amp trickle charger that charges between 2 and 5 amps. If the battery is registering 1 volt low (11.6) you will have to charge it for about 8 hours. If it's lower than that, I usually let it sit overnight, sometimes longer. If after a couple days a battery doesn't hold a charge, it's dead.

You also want to load test a battery too is you think it's questionable. You can buy a load tester, or have your local autozone or kragen do it for free. But make sure it's not tested over 40 amps, or it will kill the battery too. The general rule of them is 20 amps for 20 seconds, and the voltage shouldn't drop under 10 volts.

If you take these couple precautions and know what you're getting when you put a new batter in, you'll save yourself a lot of headache.

[nightwalker]

Life and times of Evo maintenance, summed up in pictures...

clutch install
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Photo0166.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Photo0167.jpg

How to tell when you need your timing belt changed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Photo0012.jpg

Which cam gears not to buy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Photo0055.jpg

Perrin coupler versus Injen
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Photo0108.jpg

120k mile engine bay
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Photo0115.jpg

Hunter's most badasstest alignment rack (yes, that's a 36" LCD screen)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Photo0059.jpg

Properly used
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Photo0067.jpg

[lncrevoviii]

Ohh what, that alignment rack can also align humans. So let me get this straight, if someone is walking with a limp on the right side, then you throw him on the alignment rack and tweak the left leg a bit and badda bing, badda bang. All set. The only problem now his shoes on the left leg are going to wear faster than the right leg. :lol:

[earlyapex aka jack ass]

How to tell when you need your timing belt changed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Photo0012.jpg



Brand new belts will do that as well depending on where everything is in its revolution.

[Ben]

Ohh what, that alignment rack can also align humans. So let me get this straight, if someone is walking with a limp on the right side, then you throw him on the alignment rack and tweak the left leg a bit and badda bing, badda bang. All set. The only problem now his shoes on the left leg are going to wear faster than the right leg. :lol:


Can it align the middle leg? 'Cause mine sorely needs one.

[lncrevoviii]

Ohh what, that alignment rack can also align humans. So let me get this straight, if someone is walking with a limp on the right side, then you throw him on the alignment rack and tweak the left leg a bit and badda bing, badda bang. All set. The only problem now his shoes on the left leg are going to wear faster than the right leg. :lol:


Can it align the middle leg? 'Cause mine sorely needs one.


Sure, if it is long enough. :lol:

[Ben]

Ohh what, that alignment rack can also align humans. So let me get this straight, if someone is walking with a limp on the right side, then you throw him on the alignment rack and tweak the left leg a bit and badda bing, badda bang. All set. The only problem now his shoes on the left leg are going to wear faster than the right leg. :lol:


Can it align the middle leg? 'Cause mine sorely needs one.


Sure, if it is long enough. :lol:


I'm Asian. So I guess it won't work :(.

[lncrevoviii]

Ohh what, that alignment rack can also align humans. So let me get this straight, if someone is walking with a limp on the right side, then you throw him on the alignment rack and tweak the left leg a bit and badda bing, badda bang. All set. The only problem now his shoes on the left leg are going to wear faster than the right leg. :lol:


Can it align the middle leg? 'Cause mine sorely needs one.


Sure, if it is long enough. :lol:


I'm Asian. So I guess it won't work :(.


Its ok, thats when that 36" plasma TV comes in. Pop in a good porno and boom, hey buddy how you been? Haven't seen you in a while. :lol:

Sorry for whoring your thread Phia. :razz:

[nightwalker]

Whore away guys, whore away.

[steevo8]

Dude screw you... My car has 50k on it and is about to get it's 5th motor! I hate all you with your reliable high mileage cars.

[lncrevoviii]

Dude screw you... My car has 50k on it and is about to get it's 5th motor! I hate all you with your reliable high mileage cars.


Thats when you roll up a blunt, take a hit and say "Fuck It". :lol:

[steevo8]

Dude screw you... My car has 50k on it and is about to get it's 5th motor! I hate all you with your reliable high mileage cars.


Thats when you roll up a blunt, take a hit and say "Fuck It". :lol:


Nahh. Never smoked weed and Im not about to start cause of a car.... It can drive me to drink 12 too many though. man am I jealous of the very minor issues some of you guys have. I could only dream to be the guy posting this thread lol

[nightwalker]

I do this for a living. You learn a lot about cars after 10+ years.

For the timing belt, there is a measurement for how much slack is allowed. The pic was just for reference.

[Ben]

I do this for a living. You learn a lot about cars after 10+ years.

For the timing belt, there is a measurement for how much slack is allowed. The pic was just for reference.


Does your shop work on Evo's?

[nightwalker]

Yep

[Ben]

Yep


How much for timing belt?!

[nightwalker]

Sorry for the late reply Ben. I'll give you an estimate when you come by the shop, if you're still looking to get your timing belt done.

I'm at 124k now, and updated the car visually a bit. Had to spend some money on making her look better after seeing everyone's super nice Evos. :x

Also changed out my Eibach springs for Crucials. Went up to Grizzly Peak, and did a quick drive. I was surprised with how much more grip she's got now. :D

pics once photobucket is back up

[Ben]

Sorry for the late reply Ben. I'll give you an estimate when you come by the shop, if you're still looking to get your timing belt done.

I'm at 124k now, and updated the car visually a bit. Had to spend some money on making her look better after seeing everyone's super nice Evos. :x

Also changed out my Eibach springs for Crucials. Went up to Grizzly Peak, and did a quick drive. I was surprised with how much more grip she's got now. :D

pics once photobucket is back up



Aight that works for me. Are you still running the KYB's or did you get Bilsteins or anything?

[nightwalker]

KYBs still. Definitely nice springs. Enough for what I do most of the time, winding roads.

[Ben]

KYBs still. Definitely nice springs. Enough for what I do most of the time, winding roads.


Still running on the same KYB's that came on the car? I've been thinking of dropping my car but I'm kinda worried that my stock KYB's will hate me 'cause I drive on some rough roads.

[nightwalker]

The roads I run on have been nicknamed WRC land. So no worries

[Ben]

The roads I run on have been nicknamed WRC land. So no worries


You're still on the same shocks that came on the car?

[nightwalker]

yeah, why is that so surprising?

[Ben]

yeah, why is that so surprising?


I don't know. The idea has been pummeled into my head about lowering springs being bad. But, I also figured that the stock Evo shocks should be up to task. So my mind is in great conflict.

[nightwalker]

I've also made a bit of a discovery on my own car in terms of the dreaded p0300 code. More info to come in the form of a write up.

You'll be fine, the stock Evo struts are damn beefy

[bluevo79]

Lots of maintence!:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laug h::laugh::You_Rock_Emoticon:

[Sales@m4]

Evo's can last a long time if taken care off, good job man.

[nightwalker]

about to roll into 130k. Just checked the oil and don't need to add, oil change is already due. (3k miles) Still boosting strong.

[Huys evo]

nice write up. i wish my shop had that inground rack with the laser mount hunter. we got the 3 point comp one. did your tune your evo and how long have u had your tune?

[djslik408]

Yeah good stuff. Keep up with the journal entry with any additional maintenance. Man I have a long way to go! Im only at 33k miles!! Good to hear that an evo can last if maintain.

[nebolic]

my buddy has over 200K miles on his 03 Evo, runs like a champ.

nebo

[izyzero]

nice.. i just hit 25k..

[ODUB]

I'm at 120k on my 06 EVO IX MR, and it still runs like a champ. Autocross, road race, street race, drag it, every chance i get. replaced the stock clutch at 70k miles, timing belt and plugs at 60k, plugs and plug wires at 118k, getting ready to do the timing belt again, diff and tranny fluids replaced every 30k, oil changed every 5k with royal purple and mobil 1 filter. no problems to report other than a dash light bulb burning out lol. got another autocross next weekend. can't wait.

[nightwalker]

131k now. A couple things I wanted to mention on here for maintenance...

-Valve cover gasket should be replaced whenever you see oil seeping around it, and the FSM should be consulted on where silicone should be applied when a new one is installed. The PCV should also be replaced at the same time.

-Timing belt job should consist of front main seal and oil pump seal too. Mine leaked at 85k and my timing belt was just recently done so I had to open her up again to replace both seals.

-Rear main seal and the two mini o-rings in between the transmission and transfer case should be replaced whenever a club job is done. They also leak over time.

-Axles should be rebuilt around 90k. Usually, with other cars, axles are so cheap you just pull the old one out and replace it. I haven't been able to find reasonable priced axles yet, so it's a good idea to get a rebuild kit with grease and boots from Mitsubishi and have the axles serviced. If you wait for the boot to bust, it's too late. Or if the grease thins out to the point where it starts leaking past the boot, then it's also too late because excessive bearing wear has occured.

These are pics of under my car. I was going to clean it so I decided to take pics of it. It's dirty from the rain. No oil leaks or build up though.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/My%20Cars/undercar3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/My%20Cars/undercar2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/My%20Cars/undercar1.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/My%20Cars/undercar1.jpg%5B/IMG%5D

[RREVOVIII]

wow that is very clean.....

[nightwalker]

Btw, I'm at 142k now. After some mods and minor tweaking, am now boosting 24psi spike and dropping to almost 20psi. Car still pulls like a champ. Blew out the factory shock and struts finally. Picked up another set from a 9 owner with low miles. Riding good again, but at stock ride height again. :lol: Might ride this way until I can afford coilovers. The constant jarring ride was too much.

The only thing I've been doing is fluid changes. These cars rock if they are taken care of. The Evo doesn't burn oil, and still comes out relatively clean between oil changes. I can't say enough about keeping up on your oil changes. Just 5w30 Mobil1 since day 1 too.

[WWEVOVIII]

[quote=nightwalker;595153]Btw, I'm at 142k now. After some mods and minor tweaking, am now boosting 24psi spike and dropping to almost 20psi. Car still pulls like a champ. Blew out the factory shock and struts finally. Picked up another set from a 9 owner with low miles. Riding good again, but at stock ride height again. :lol: Might ride this way until I can afford coilovers. The constant jarring ride was too much.

The only thing I've been doing is fluid changes. These cars rock if they are taken care of. The Evo doesn't burn oil, and still comes out relatively clean between oil changes. I can't say enough about keeping up on your oil changes. Just 5w30 Mobil1 since day 1 too.[/quote



oh wow thats good to hear, and thanks for sharing with us, so I shouldnt be worry about mine im on 66K now I think and need to change a clutch and ive been using 5w30 ever since I got the car hehe. im glad that your evo still runs like a champ ;)

[nightferret]

so did u ever install those springs? or are u going with coilovers?

[nightwalker]

Installed the springs with the other set of stock struts and shocks. I like the ride and rake. Thanks! After I clean up the car and wax it I'll post some pics.

How's the Ecuflash studying going?

[joeevo]

05 evo8 89000 and still counting

[nightferret]

im not going to lie im a little confused. but i still need to purcahse everything i need to at least get started.

[GokuSSJ4]

Wow that's a lot of milage. Congrats on keeping the car for so long and not trading it for a new model. Loll I know I've done it 3 times already but hope to reach thy milage eventually all in due time.

[nightwalker]

Update:

Hit 144,000 miles driving home from work today. Not racking up the miles quite as fast as I use to. Just did another full drive train fluid service. Old fluid was still amber in color, so no worries here. Nothing leaking as well. Under chassis is bone dry. Remember to change those small seals and keep your fluids fresh and you won't have leak problems.

Also just passed smog with flying colors. A big benefit for our Evo's is that we don't have to get on the dyno. 2500 rpm; HC=5ppm, CO=0.00, CO2=15.01%, O2=0.01%. Idle was almost identical. If there is any question or disbelief, I can scan up the actual test.

Running 272 cams, 880cc injectors, walbro, downpipe, O2 housing, Hallman MBC, 3" exhaust, APS intake and stock cat.

[sho_evo_209]

hey man do u still have those helix cams? or are u running another set?

[nightwalker]

still on the Helix cams

[sho_evo_209]

how they work out for ya?...

[nightwalker]

well, 144k miles, and still running strong. :D

[sho_evo_209]

wow man thats saying something about them cams are u ruinnig springs and what not too or just stock?

[nightwalker]

stock valve springs. I originally bought them because they were the only hollow ones. Back then it was a big thing. Nobody talks about that anymore though.

[sho_evo_209]

hey i was intrested in the origianlly and still am but conflicted between them and hks

[ApexVIII]

damn almost as many miles as my 95 DSM lol!

edit : nvm you are at 144k now, thats 14k more miles then me lol

[nightwalker]

Cliff notes update:

-147,000 miles.
-swapped to re-balanced 9 turbo with ported hotside (ported myself)
-ported stainless ebay O2 housing
-ported and coated exhaust manifold
-Forced Performance install kit with upgraded stainless oil feed line

-upgraded ROM to Tephra v5.10 94170015
NLTS, KnockCel, Valet mode, and dual map switching features
future E85 tune coming :D

-ran virtual dyno simulator (will dyno in the spring to compare)
according to most on EvoM, it's fairly close. Not a replacement for a dyno, but a good tool to have to compare gains with mods.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Jan3-2010base.jpg

additional notes:

Noticed now with the 9 turbo and ported components, I had to re-gap my spark plugs down to .022 from my previous .024. Had slight break up at high rpm. Still on stock coils! Looks like the next upgrade will be ignition. A larger intercooler may also be in the plans once summer rolls around. My Evo came with the 94170008 ROM initially. Changing to 94170015 improved the idle with the cams, and has made the car smoother to drive.

[batosai]

still on the Helix cams

how they work out for ya?...

well, 144k miles, and still running strong. :D

glad to hear about those cams since I picked up a set recently along w/ the walbro 255 pump...

[EvOlUtIoN_IX_SE]

shoot i have 51xxx replaced my clutch at 25xxx and my tranny has that 5th gear grind problem hopefully mine stays alive as long as yours!!

[nightwalker]

^ I've used nothing but OEM Diaqueen. Take that info with a grain of salt.

[hellz Evo]

^ I've used nothing but OEM Diaqueen. Take that info with a grain of salt.


Best oil out there for our cars.

[Bullet]

Cliff notes update:

-147,000 miles.
-swapped to re-balanced 9 turbo with ported hotside (ported myself)
-ported stainless ebay O2 housing
-ported and coated exhaust manifold
-Forced Performance install kit with upgraded stainless oil feed line

-upgraded ROM to Tephra v5.10 94170015
NLTS, KnockCel, Valet mode, and dual map switching features
future E85 tune coming :D

-ran virtual dyno simulator (will dyno in the spring to compare)
according to most on EvoM, it's fairly close. Not a replacement for a dyno, but a good tool to have to compare gains with mods.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/Jan3-2010base.jpg

additional notes:

Noticed now with the 9 turbo and ported components, I had to re-gap my spark plugs down to .022 from my previous .024. Had slight break up at high rpm. Still on stock coils! Looks like the next upgrade will be ignition. A larger intercooler may also be in the plans once summer rolls around. My Evo came with the 94170008 ROM initially. Changing to 94170015 improved the idle with the cams, and has made the car smoother to drive.

I'm glad your evo is still running strong @ 144,XXXX miles. I have an 03 with 70,XXXX. BTW how do you switch to valet mode?

[nightwalker]

You can't just switch to valet mode. You have to flash a new rom to replace your current one. You can hit up any tuner to set you up.

EDIT:
24psi, more boost, change to ignition map. 150,000 miles now (added weight, now carrying spare tire)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/mechaniac/2-22-2010tune10degrees7000.jpg

car is running just fine! Next update will be with ported intake manifold and throttle body.

[nightwalker]

A couple notes to add: Knock-cell was flashing, and I've never had it flash before. Turns out my lower injector O-rings were dry and cracked. They were leaking boost. Changed them and car drives smoother. I did not think the car was not running smooth because I'm so used to driving this thing everyday. If a problem doesn't present itself immediately, but instead is a progressive issue then it's hard to know if there is a problem at all.

A good bit of advice when changing them, lube them up! You can use WD-40, a little bit of grease, or oil.

So now I'm getting a slight 5th gear grind if I shift after 4000 rpms. 150k miles on the same tranny ain't bad. I'm making more power now, and I guess my repeated daily abuse is taking it's toll. I take this thing to 7000 rpm every morning when I get on the highway. I've been advised by other Evo owners to use Redline MT-90. If you look on John Sheperd's site, he recommends MT-90 first, then Diaqueen. I'll report back next week when the MT-90 arrives.

[nightwalker]

MT90 does shift better. But grinding is still there. Also found a good amount of metal on the drain plug magnet. Not a good sign. Looks like a Shep Trans upgrade will be in my future.

Spark plugs also started fouling out on me. Discovered this after my knock cell light started coming on at odd drive points, and without consistency. Changed plugs and knock cell stopped it's inconsistent flashing. I guess knock cell serves as a service indicator too. :)

Long idles, excessive rich mixtures, and stop and go driving will foul your spark plugs faster.

[PAT@FFTEC]

MT90 does shift better. But grinding is still there. Also found a good amount of metal on the drain plug magnet. Not a good sign. Looks like a Shep Trans upgrade will be in my future.

Spark plugs also started fouling out on me. Discovered this after my knock cell light started coming on at odd drive points, and without consistency. Changed plugs and knock cell stopped it's inconsistent flashing. I guess knock cell serves as a service indicator too. :)

Long idles, excessive rich mixtures, and stop and go driving will foul your spark plugs faster.

I'm guessing that you're from SoCal based off your "lala land" location?

If you're from up in NorCal we can take care of that trans for you :)

[Ben]

I'm guessing that you're from SoCal based off your "lala land" location?

If you're from up in NorCal we can take care of that trans for you :)

He's a regular poster on EE...local...

[nightwalker]

A long overdue update!

The grinding I was getting was because my clutch was adjusted wrong. I would go through the entire process, but it would take too long. Better yet, just watch this video. If your clutch is grinding, or shifting is notchy, then this is most likely the fix. My ACT MB7HDSS shifts so smooth now, it's unbelievable. 8k rpm shifts are no problem!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw

I've stuck to MT90 in my transmission, and Diaqueen in the center and rear diff. Car is happy with the combo.

I'm still using ATF+4 in my power steering. Taking a bit out every oil change and filling it back up to keep it fresh. Same with the brake fluid. Once a year now I'll bleed all the corners to get the last of the fluid at the calipers. Car is still the same, no leaks, and fluids look nice and clean. If you don't keep the fluids clean, and they break down, they will cause a leak.

I've switched from Mobil1 to Motul 8100 x-max in the same 5w30 weight. Motul is a lot more resilient to the power and heat that high boost cars see. The Mobil1 would start to burn right around 3000 miles. I ran the Motul over 4000 miles a couple times and it didn't burn.

I've done some additional porting to my ebay O2 housing and turbo hotside. I've also spent some time studying the exhaust manifold and cleaned out a lot of the deeper portions. The extra smoothing of the exhaust parts has made the car smoother to drive. How much power I can't say, but it is less jerky and drives like a nice smooth stock car.

I also spent a ton of time testing air filters and intake pipes. Tested were the Perrin, Vibrant, HKS, Fujita, GST oh my god, or whatever they call it, and a cheap-o Kragen filter. Interestingly, the best combo was the Vibrant and Samco tube. The Perrin (though heavily favored on Evo M) produced richer AFR's and didn't allow the car to hold a higher load. The Vibrant showed better results on the same intake pipe, same tune.

All the testing and custom modding I've done has allowed me to run 27psi peak on 91 octane with the 9 turbo. The car is ridiculous in the rain, and spins first gear on WOT in the dry. My goal this year is to go 11.8 or lower on the 9 turbo, street tires and 91 octane. I've already gone low, low 12's with the previous setup.

Current mileage is 167,109. Third timing belt will be due at 180,000. Still on original balance belt tensioner, timing belt tensioner and timing belt idler. This time, all three are going to be changed. Look to this space for a proper HOW TO on performing a timing belt. So many people (shops included) get it wrong, it's amazing.

Thanks for reading. This info is for the open minded people who aren't slaves to the slew of bad information spewed on EvoM

[autotechnica garage]

and then?

[nightwalker]

No more and then.

[nightwalker]

So for a long overdue update...

Basically now the car is at 203,000 miles. I have been boosting 30 psi (sometimes 31-32 on cold nights) for the last 30,000 (On 91 octane, and Evo 9 turbo). It's been a long road of datalogging, testing, and tuning.

[nightwalker]

Car has run a best of 11.9 on an Evo 9 turbo on 91 octane, and trapped a best of 116 mph on street tires. Full interior, A/C, etc. I spin first pretty good and some of second. I know the car has more in it, so hopefully when I have time I'm going back for an 11.7 or faster. Then maybe I'll change to E85 and see how fast the car can really go. The car has been launched just about once every week (mostly because I'm bored) and has still been boosting 30 psi since I last posted. Mileage is now 216,412 and still going strong. The car is still daily driven.

I'm now running Redline 5w30 synthetic engine oil. I want to see how much better an Ester based synthetic will do versus the Mobil1 EP and Motul 8100 I've used. The transmission oil is Redline MT90. Transfer case has always been Diaqueen SAE90, and the rear diff is Redline NS 75w140 with my own specific amount of limited slip additive added in. I also use Redline Water Wetter in the coolant, and change it every year. The power steering still gets a reservoir change of Valvoline ATF+4 every once in awhile. AND, no leaks whatsoever!

[SavageEvo8]

sweetness! i love seeing high mileage evos, especially since i finally broke into six digits myself. altho i have done a complete engine rebuild already. haha

[Ben]

Phia is like our local 4RETECH from EvoM. Goes to show how long a modified car can go with normal maintenance.

[SavageEvo8]

i maintain mine, just beat the shit out of every single time i drive it. hahahaha

[nightwalker]

Phia is like our local 4RETECH from EvoM.

Except mine is 100% stock. Never been rebuilt, stock headstuds, and stock headgasket.

[nightwalker]

http://youtu.be/TuecRy85CaA<a href="http://youtu.be/TuecRy85CaA" target="_blank">
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuecRy85CaA (http://youtu.be/TuecRy85CaA)