newbie autox questions

[TarmacEVO]

I have a 2005 GSR. The only mods are evo7 tails, Vortex Genorator, V1 hardwire, and recaro seat lowering brackets. What class should I compete in for my first autox. What are some basic mods that I should do while still staying in the easiest class?
Thanks!

[chrisw]

you should try out STU.

[vtluu]

It really depends what you mean by "easiest class". Or "easiest".
- Easiest with regards to driving? A Stock; unless it's poorly designed (and the Evo isn't), a stock car is generally going to be easier to drive than a modified one.
- Easiest with regards to competition from other cars? Typically as a beginner you'll get beaten by most people with more experience than you even if they're in (much) "slower" cars than yours. Beyond that, I'd say A Stock might be tougher with regards to other cars than E Street Prepared, even for a stock Evo. (Though you'd be surprised how fast a well-prepared (and well-driven) ESP Camaro or Mustang can be.)
- For a beginner I'd say classing isn't all that important; I might even recommend A Stock because it prevents you from tinkering too much with the car. Definitely focus on improving your driving skills first.
- The local SCCA chapters have a Novice program whereby you can run with other novices in AS-N, ESP-N, or STU-N. Novice classes are restricted to novices (duh) who've autocrossed less than a year, and are restricted to street tires only (STU is for street tires regardless).

As I said, as a newbie classing isn't going to be all that important. Other novices notwithstanding, you're not going to be competitive against most other drivers at first, regardless of what class you run in. The important thing is to get some seat time and work on your skills. And have fun of course. :)

[evo_dadi]

like what tam said classing is not that important,if youre confident with your driving you can just skip the novice or go for broke with your evo ;) it was my first autox event yesterday and i just ran the regular street modified w/o going novice and i was prety satisfied with it.there's more room for improvement for sure but it takes time for that :twisted:

[V8KiLL3R]

there's more room for improvement for sure but it takes time for that :twisted: :bow:

[vtluu]

... and just when you've gotten decent, you do like me, go and throw a bunch of stuff on the car to make it harder to drive again, and look like a clueless n00b all over again. :lol:

[earlyapex]

I have a 2005 GSR. The only mods are evo7 tails, Vortex Genorator, V1 hardwire, and recaro seat lowering brackets. What class should I compete in for my first autox. What are some basic mods that I should do while still staying in the easiest class?
Thanks!

Where did you get the lowering brackets, how much and how much did they lower the seats?

tia!

[evo_dadi]

... and just when you've gotten decent, you do like me, go and throw a bunch of stuff on the car to make it harder to drive again, and look like a clueless n00b all over again. :lol:

thats why you mods it first then learn to drive it :wink: :P :lol:

[vtluu]

thats why you mods it first then learn to drive it :wink: :P :lol:
Touché! :lol:

I guess a better interpretation of my sig is, "Don't let the car get too far ahead of the driver." ;)

[TarmacEVO]

Thanks for all the feedback. What mods would you do to an Evo for A Stock? Where is a good place in the bay to buy a helmet? Any recommendations for a good helmet?

I bought the seat lowering brackets from Gino at MPJ Performance. I thought I heard that they lower the seats about 2", but it seems a bit less than that??? I believe they were about $175 plus your core brackets. I'm 6'3" and needed the space to hopefully fit upright with a helmet.

What are the biggest maintenance items from autocrossing? If you didn't go crazy on mods, then how much extra do most of you spend for say 10 local autocrosses? I realize this really depends on how carried away you get, but I want to get a general idea.
Thanks!

[evo_dadi]

membership for the scca is $80/year then i think its $30 for every round but im not sure about the slush series.bigest maintenance i think would be the tires since you get to rough them up on autox.chrisw posted a thread about car class and brackets but here's a quick run for A stock.
Stock
As a rough guide, if your car has modifications beyond this list it is not eligible for Stock Category:
-Anything available on the exact model and year of your car as standard or optional equipment, as installed on the factory assembly line (nothing available only dealer-installed is allowed), plus
-Standard OEM identical replacement parts
-Accessories, gauges, appearance, comfort, and convenience items (not replacement driver's seat, though) that basically don't help
-Added roll bar or roll cage to spec (not required, though)
-Driver harness (no cutting seats to install, though)
-Trailer hitch and/or tow bar mountings
-Any wheel of diameter and width identical to a stock or factory optional wheel, offset within +- 0.25 inch
-Most street legal tires that will fit the mounted wheels and stock bodywork
-Any shock absorber of the same type and mounting as original; no change to standard spring mountings is allowed; suspension geometry may not be altered; gas or hydraulic shocks are permitted
-Any brake linings; pre-1992 cars may use solid/braided metal brake lines.
-Any front anti-roll bar (no change to stock/optional rear anti-roll bar, if present)
-Manufacturer specified ignition settings only
-Any replacement air filter element (or removal of air filter element); no plumbing changes, however
-Engine bored no more than .020"; no balancing or porting/polishing of head
-Replacement of any part of the exhaust system past the catalytic converter (if quiet)
-Any oil filter
-Added clutch scattershield

[RSpilot]

basically, the seat rails put you out of A stock and into STU. If it is not specifically allowed in the rules, you can't do it. The lowered seat rails lower the cars' center of gravity. to compete in STU, all you trully need to do is springs and sway bar (rear). Max width tire you can run in STU is 245. :roll:

[chrisw]

Thanks for all the feedback. What mods would you do to an Evo for A Stock? Where is a good place in the bay to buy a helmet? Any recommendations for a good helmet?

I bought the seat lowering brackets from Gino at MPJ Performance. I thought I heard that they lower the seats about 2", but it seems a bit less than that??? I believe they were about $175 plus your core brackets. I'm 6'3" and needed the space to hopefully fit upright with a helmet.

What are the biggest maintenance items from autocrossing? If you didn't go crazy on mods, then how much extra do most of you spend for say 10 local autocrosses? I realize this really depends on how carried away you get, but I want to get a general idea.
Thanks!

check out this thread.

http://www.norcalevo.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=516

[vtluu]

Hmm, wonder if we should update that thread for 2005. For example, no more indexed Street Tire class.

The main maintenance cost in autocross, above and beyond regular maintenance on your vehicle, is tires. A typical set of street tires will last 10-20 autocrosses depending how you drive them, venue, course conditions, etc.

Helmet shopping: http://www.norcalevo.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2404

[chrisw]

Hmm, wonder if we should update that thread for 2005. For example, no more indexed Street Tire class.

The main maintenance cost in autocross, above and beyond regular maintenance on your vehicle, is tires. A typical set of street tires will last 10-20 autocrosses depending how you drive them, venue, course conditions, etc.

Helmet shopping: http://www.norcalevo.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2404

there is alot that needs to be updated. I have been meaning to update it, but don't have the time.