Lower Tie Bars

[MaxKanisha]

Hey guys,

Do the lower tie bars really have a purpose? Do they make a difference in the handling aspects of the car? I've heard of some people removing the tie bars and having no differences in handling. I was wondering if anyone on here removed their tie bars or if its a good idea to remove them or not. Thanks in advance NCE.

[Ben]

Just wondering, howcome you want to remove them?

[ChuckP]

Yes, leave them on.

[MaxKanisha]

Just wondering, howcome you want to remove them?


I heard over time 3" downpipes tend to sag and rattle on the tie bars.

[Ben]

Just wondering, howcome you want to remove them?


I heard over time 3" downpipes tend to sag and rattle on the tie bars.


I've heard of people putting a washer on there.

[JERRY]

I think it all depends on how hard you drive the car. If you want to pull them out, give it a shot, it's not like the chassis is going to fold on you driving around town or anything. They are there to prevent chassis flex, but if there's not much flexing going on (i.e. you not pushing the car hard or anything), then there's not much to worry about.

Jerry

[steevo8]

I wasn't going to even post here cause I think the op is a idiot but maybe someone will find what I have to say useful.

You will have absolutely NO issues removing them.. They are weak and suck anyways. On top of that you can actually gain some front grip by removing them. There's plenty of track guys that do not run them at all and never have... At least 4-5 on this forum. Going to something stiffer like the cusco v2 brace does have it's advantages but it's a tuning aid and is very similar to running a stiffer front sway bar. I know there's people that argue with me over this and what not but go ride in jbfoc's car and tell me that it handles poorly or that there's more chassis flex then stock. I know a few others that are not running them as well and it's based off what some of the top suspension tuners in the industry suggest... I am 100% possative that you do not need them on the street. This is just my $.02

[MaxKanisha]

Hey Steve, thanks for the input man.

Yeah it seems like Josh tracks his Evo often, so he would be able to notice if the tie bars made a difference or not. Do you run your stock tie bars Steve?

I wont be doing much tracking, usually just a few spirited corners here and there. Hahaha

[typhoon 28]

I have spacers between the front lower tie bar. My "fatty" downpipe still rubs, thought about just ditching them, but thought they served a purpose.

[steevo8]

if your dp is hitting them there's a large chance your ecu is picking up false knock and pulling timing

[typhoon 28]

if your dp is hitting them there's a large chance your ecu is picking up false knock and pulling timing


Then what,ditch the bars? I still auto-X & stuff, could use more stability

[gohdunlam]

shit my shit has been hitting for so long, even more now with a works croxx plate, imma try some spacers...totally forgot about doing that

maybe my car will get faster =]

[cornercarver]

you got pm bish! :D

[cornercarver]

I dissagree.
You have to compare apples to apples here. JBfoco's car is a track oriented car with a cage which stiffens the chassis significantly and several other suspension mods. On a stock car, removing braces will demonstrate a noticeable change. You are correct, removing the front bars may improve front grip on a caged car, but on a stock car it may promote more deflection. If they did absolutely nothing why did Mitsubishi, well known for being a cheap company, spend the money in the extra materials? Tell me they don't do anything while whenever I go over a speed bump without them my sunroof seals creak....

I do agree that they are weak and should be addressed, but not removed. Simply welding an "X" brace tying them together would solve the problem for cheap. If your argument is that for a street car it isn't needed because it it not tracked, then you might as well remove the strut bar and rear sway bar. Plenty of cars come without them. Keep them on at least to retain the chassis for longevity.

Wrap your DP and if needed use spacers and call it a day.



I wasn't going to even post here cause I think the op is a idiot but maybe someone will find what I have to say useful.

You will have absolutely NO issues removing them.. They are weak and suck anyways. On top of that you can actually gain some front grip by removing them. There's plenty of track guys that do not run them at all and never have... At least 4-5 on this forum. Going to something stiffer like the cusco v2 brace does have it's advantages but it's a tuning aid and is very similar to running a stiffer front sway bar. I know there's people that argue with me over this and what not but go ride in jbfoc's car and tell me that it handles poorly or that there's more chassis flex then stock. I know a few others that are not running them as well and it's based off what some of the top suspension tuners in the industry suggest... I am 100% possative that you do not need them on the street. This is just my $.02

[steevo8]

First of all Joshs car doesnt have a cage. It has a 4point bolt in roll bar...... Hardly going to tie the chassis together. In the grand scheme of things you do want the chassis as stiff as possible, BUT you can over stiffen the chassis if your suspension isnt setup for it. My only point was that if a track car gan easily get away with not having them, then there is no way in hell that a street car is going to feel any ill effects. As for what mitsu put on the car I wouldnt put too much weight in your theory, car manufactures put things on for odd reasons... In fact if they wanted to save money they could have tied that section in better and just not put a front sway bar on the car, and it would have handled better, but also would have made the car not understeer which isnt a marketable trait. Im not saying its the best way to go but its for sure not going to be an issue and if you cant afford to spend the time and money to set your suspension up then its more grip on the cheap in some cases.



I dissagree.
You have to compare apples to apples here. JBfoco's car is a track oriented car with a cage which stiffens the chassis significantly and several other suspension mods. On a stock car, removing braces will demonstrate a noticeable change. You are correct, removing the front bars may improve front grip on a caged car, but on a stock car it may promote more deflection. If they did absolutely nothing why did Mitsubishi, well known for being a cheap company, spend the money in the extra materials? Tell me they don't do anything while whenever I go over a speed bump without them my sunroof seals creak....

I do agree that they are weak and should be addressed, but not removed. Simply welding an "X" brace tying them together would solve the problem for cheap. If your argument is that for a street car it isn't needed because it it not tracked, then you might as well remove the strut bar and rear sway bar. Plenty of cars come without them. Keep them on at least to retain the chassis for longevity.

Wrap your DP and if needed use spacers and call it a day.



I wasn't going to even post here cause I think the op is a idiot but maybe someone will find what I have to say useful.

You will have absolutely NO issues removing them.. They are weak and suck anyways. On top of that you can actually gain some front grip by removing them. There's plenty of track guys that do not run them at all and never have... At least 4-5 on this forum. Going to something stiffer like the cusco v2 brace does have it's advantages but it's a tuning aid and is very similar to running a stiffer front sway bar. I know there's people that argue with me over this and what not but go ride in jbfoc's car and tell me that it handles poorly or that there's more chassis flex then stock. I know a few others that are not running them as well and it's based off what some of the top suspension tuners in the industry suggest... I am 100% possative that you do not need them on the street. This is just my $.02

[typhoon 28]

I must agree w/ Stevo8 after driving w/o the bars for several days now. I was sick of the rubbing, the spacing wasn't enough, Too much spacing they would contact the ground allot even on my swift springs. In fact, I think the steering response is much better w/o them. I corner aggressively, & have never rolled a car. I live & drive on tough mountain roads (Mt Madonna Touge Alliance) & would like to keep trying the bars removed @ future auto-X's. The sub-frame & swaybar seem much stonger then those dinky bars anyway. You could nearly bend them by hand.

[DoggDicker]

The front sub frame is pretty stout. I've ran stock bars, Cusco Ver I and II along with every Cusco underbrace, and no bars at all. After testing all that, I don't think the front sub-frame bars really help...maybe in theory...yes, but actuality...no. I did notice an improvement with the front side braces...more oversteer.
If you get some bars that connect the sub-frame to the frame, now that's a different story...
Put your fat pig of a car on a diet and throw them in the trash...

Dennis

[typhoon 28]

The front sub frame is pretty stout. I've ran stock bars, Cusco Ver I and II along with every Cusco underbrace, and no bars at all. After testing all that, I don't think the front sub-frame bars really help...maybe in theory...yes, but actuality...no. I did notice an improvement with the front side braces...more oversteer.
If you get some bars that connect the sub-frame to the frame, now that's a different story...
Put your fat pig of a car on a diet and throw them in the trash...

Dennis


By "side braces", do you mean the ones under the fenders connecting cross-sections of the frame? where do you score those?

[DoggDicker]

These... http://www.speedelement.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1426&category_id=68&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=38

Look at the side of my car...for further guidance young grasshopper...

Dennis

[wht03evo8]

If you take off the tie brs your car will not be as stiff in the long run.. And depending on on what evo that they have cuz I have a 3in downpipe and I have had no issues at all so do wht you want but I do not suggest taking it off for any reason unless you are upgrading

[gohdunlam]

whats a good downpipe for evo9 that clears everything?

for now i just took of the croxx plate, before i had tie bars, and its always been knocking. I believe that all this time the ecu was reading the knock, since the car pulls harder now =]