How-to: wheel hub removal and lug/wheel stud installation [Archive]

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vtluu

07-21-2005, 02:32 AM

Before you begin

These instructions detail how to remove the front wheel hub assembly and replace the front wheel studs on the Evo 8 (Evo 7-9 should be identical); the procedure for replacing the rear wheel studs will be similar. While it's possible to replace the wheel studs without removing the hub from the car, hammering on the wheel studs with the hub in place can damage the wheel bearings.

As with all car work, a few rules of thumb apply: take your time, use the right tools, wear appropriate protective safety gear, and if you don't feel comfortable doing the work yourself, get help or take it to a professional.

Time: with the right knowledge and tools, this job can be done in less than an hour per corner. Ideally it should be done on a car that's had some time to cool, since you probably don't want to handle brake or hub components when they're hot, and the lug studs may be more tightly seated when hot due to thermal expansion.

Materials

- wheel studs
- spare open-ended lug nuts or M12x1.5 nuts and washers (for pulling the lug studs)
- anti-seize compound (optional)

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0050.jpg

The wheel studs being installed here are those included with the H&R 5mm wheel spacer kit. Interestingly, although the spacers are 5 mm, the studs themselves are only about 3 mm longer than stock. As a result the 5zigen FN01R-C wheels I have are held on by about 6.5 threads of the lug nuts (torqued)--6 being considered by some to be the bare minimum to safely hold a wheel. Longer wheel studs are available, for example the Kyo-Ei studs from Road Race Engineering (22 mm longer than stock), though you'll need to use open-ended lugnuts.

Tools

- 17 mm and 19 mm hex sockets
- 21 mm deep-drive socket (or whatever you need to undo the lug nuts)
- ratchet and socket extension(s)
- breaker bar or impact wrench
- 32 mm axle nut socket (or deep-drive 32 mm hex socket)
- torque wrench
- needlenose pliers
- hammer
- PB-Blaster, WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc. (optional)

Hub assembly removal

Jack up the corner of the car you're working on. Don't jack up both sides; keeping one tire on the ground will prevent the front wheels from spinning freely.

Undo the lug nuts and remove the wheel.

A cotter pin secures the axle nut in position; straighten it and pull it out.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0057.jpg

Use the axle nut socket and breaker bar (or impact wrench) to break loose the axle nut. It may be easier if you fix the axle in place by having a someone step on the brakes.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0058.jpg

Don't undo the nut just yet.

Unbolt the two bolts holding the brake caliper assembly to the knuckle. Then use a disc brake spreader tool--or your hands--to open up the brake pads and pistons a bit and remove the brake caliper from brake rotor. Use a zip tie to hang the caliper out of the way. Then remove the brake rotor.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0063.jpg

The hub assembly is bolted to the knuckle with four bolts (three seen in the photo below).

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0055.jpg

The tie rod interferes with access to some of the bolts--when the wheel is straight. Turn the key to the "on" position to prevent the steering wheel from locking, and turn the wheel fully towards the side your're working on. This will allow you to undo the two front bolts. Turn the wheel fully away, and you'll be able to access the two rear bolts.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0062.jpg

Once you've undone the bolts holding the hub assembly, straighten the wheel and undo the axle nut. There's also a big split washer under the axle nut that you need to remove. Note its orientation--tapered side out.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0059.jpg

With all the bolts and axle nut undone, the wheel hub assembly will come off. A few light taps of the hammer may be needed to get it loose; if it's seized onto the axle spline, you may need a slide hammer with an axle puller adapter to pull it loose, though I was easily able to pull mine off even after 35k miles.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0066.jpg

Wheel stud removal

If you have a press you can use it remove the lug studs but the easiest way is simply to hammer them out. With the hub off the car, hammering on the studs no longer risks damaging the wheel bearings. You may wish to spray the studs with a bit of PB-Blaster or WD-40 to loosen them a bit before extracting them. Hold the hub firmly and strike the lug stud; even with my puny muscles, 2-3 strikes of the hammer was enough to pop out each stud.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0068.jpg

Wheel stud installation

If you have an impact wrench you can install the studs with the hub off the car; otherwise it's much easier to with the hub back on. Thread the hub back on to the axle spline, and put the axle nut and washer back (don't tighten them yet--not that you can) to hold it in place. Then put on the hub assembly bolts; use the same wheel-turning trick you used to remove them to easily access them. Torque the bolts to 88 N-m (65 ft-lb). Then tighten the axle nut and torque to 226 N-m (167 ft-lb). Put the cotter pin back in place and bend it back.

By turning the hub to the right position, you can insert one lug stud. You'll need to jack up the other front wheel off the ground to be able to turn the hub.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0072.jpg

To seat the lug stud, put a washer or two on it, then thread a nut (M12x1.5 size) or a spare open-ended lug nut onto it.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0073.jpg

Tighten the latter using a ratchet, breaker bar or impact wrench until the stud is fully seated. Don't overdo it--you don't want to damage the stud by pulling it further than it can go.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0074.jpg

Wrap-up

Re-install brake rotor and caliper. You may need to push the brake pistons a bit more open to get caliper over the brake rotor. Torque the brake caliper bolts to 108 N-m (80 ft-lb).

Fit the new spacer and wheel and make sure everything fits and you have enough turns of the lug nuts on each stud to safely attach the wheel. To prevent lug nuts from binding or seizing, apply anti-seize compound to the lug studs.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0083.jpg

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album281/IMG_0082.jpg

EVO GRIM

07-21-2005, 06:55 AM

Nice write tam. Do you have pics of the rims and tire on?

Matz

07-21-2005, 07:03 AM

Awesome writeup as usual, Tam! Would it be better to use the arbor press to put the studs back in, instead of using the spacer / breaker bar trick? Just wondering if it really matters.

dohcvtec

07-21-2005, 07:56 AM

Awesome writeup as usual, Tam! Would it be better to use the arbor press to put the studs back in, instead of using the spacer / breaker bar trick? Just wondering if it really matters.
whatever gets those guys seated :)

vtluu

07-21-2005, 08:43 AM

Yeah, a press would be better but I don't have one... If only I had a machine shop, what fun I would have! :lol:

smack

07-21-2005, 08:49 AM

hey tam, just wondering if the spacers push the wheel out past the lip of the hub making the wheels no longer hub centric since there isn't anything to center around?

vtluu

07-21-2005, 09:02 AM

hey tam, just wondering if the spacers push the wheel out past the lip of the hub making the wheels no longer hub centric since there isn't anything to center around?
There is a tiny bit of hub left but not enough to center the wheel. I was worried about this and asked some knowledgeable people (autocrossers and racers) on Solo2.org and here's what they had to say; I asked, "Without the hubcentric rings, don't the lug bolts/studs bear the loading on the wheels rather than the hub? (And isn't that kinda bad?)"

The lug bolts/studs bear essentially all of the load whether or not you use centering rings. The hub center only carries load when the lug nuts are loose.

Only if the lugnuts aren't torqued properly, and then you've got a bigger problem on your hands anyhow [Smile] . You still have frictional forces at the hub and wheel interface, being hubcentric really just makes the wheel easier to put on and tighten. Once the lugs are tight, the studs are working in tension anyway, where they are much stronger (either the hub or wheel would have to break/bend before the studs could be loaded in bending).

There are numerous racing wheels that are centered on the studs not the center hole. By the way these must be balanced by someone who has the correct equipment to balance to the studs not the center hole.
With only 6.5 threads on lug nuts, I make a point of re-torquing them after each of my first two track sessions since they'll loosen due to thermal expansion. I just bought longer lug studs from RRE and as soon as my new OEM-style open-ended lug nuts come in I'll put them on.

vtluu

07-21-2005, 09:23 AM

Here are a few photos of my car with the new rims and tires:

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album273/0006_G.jpg

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album273/0013_G.jpg

http://imagenode.com/gg

The spacers were necessary to keep the tire from rubbing on the spring with the strut camber bolt in the "-2" position.

MarkSAE

07-21-2005, 10:17 AM

Nice write-up Tam. Did this fix your vibration problem?

vtluu

07-21-2005, 10:53 AM

Nice write-up Tam. Did this fix your vibration problem?
I had the problem before and after, so I guess not. I might install new wheel hubs to see if that helps.

smack

07-21-2005, 11:23 AM

The spacers were necessary to keep the tire from rubbing on the spring with the strut camber bolt in the "-2" position.

why don't you just run an 8" front spring instead of the spacer? that will move the perches
up high enough to clear the tire.

MarkSAE

07-21-2005, 11:29 AM

I had the problem before and after, so I guess not. I might install new wheel hubs to see if that helps.

Oh okay. I thought you got new hubs.

StockEVO

08-23-2005, 02:02 PM

chrisw

08-23-2005, 02:21 PM

Nice writeup and pictures. But ideally you want to press the new studs in. By throwing a couple of washer and some old cheesy lug nuts on, then wrenching on them. You are stretching the studs. Not a good a idea. If I was stuck in Oakland, your methods would be fine. But since I'm not. It's a big NO NO.

I agree. I would use either a press or a C clamp and a large socket to press the studs back in.

Also, I think you can use the C clamp and socket methods to push out the old studs as well.

Just my $0.02 for a pretty good writeup.

zyounker

08-23-2005, 02:33 PM

Just buy your own press.. If you do alot of automovitve work they come in real handy..

You can get a cheap 6 Ton press for like $70..

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=33391

They have a nicer 12 Ton one which i had bought for ~140.

SouthernCrane

08-23-2005, 04:14 PM

nice write up Tam. On a side note, what rotors are you running?

vtluu

08-23-2005, 04:20 PM

The rotors are the cheapie "R1 concept" rotors (supposedly cast from the same mold as the Rotoras) I got from some vendor off EvoM. I've had them on for maybe a half-dozen track days so far and no cracking or warping, so I guess they're fine.

I tried using a C-clamp but it didn't really work because of the slightly awkward shape of the hub (makes it hard to line up anything straight).

Had I known a press was so cheap I would have definitely gotten one; I just assumed it was a big and expensive piece of equipment. (Of course, being a Harbor Freight tool I might not have gotten more than one use out of it. :))

I wouldn't think "stretching" the stud is much of an issue though. I mean, the torque levels involved aren't much more than what you would normally apply on the stud when torquing a lug nut on a mounted wheel. Damaging the threads was a concern, which is why I used a lug nut (which puts a lot of threads on the bolt compared to a conventional nut) to pull the stud through. I watched the amount of space left on the knurl carefully and stopped tightening as soon as the stud head was flush against the hub. The only impact wrench I used was a cheap battery-powered unit that barely puts out 100 ft-lbs of torque; I can see how a powerful impact wrench could damage a stud though. Also, I used a conical-seat washer (which came with my fender-rolling tool) between the lug nut and the hub to ensure the lug nut was centered and seated properly (didn't pull the stud at an angle).

I'll admit I'm wrong when my wheels fall off... :lol:

RSpilot

08-23-2005, 11:05 PM

When putting on the longer studs from road/race you must install the studs before remounting the hubs as there is not enough space between the backing plates and the inside face of the hub for them to fit when assembled (learned the hard way). Also, when you pull the hub from the axle the bearing housing comes with it. To avoid any possibility of damage to the bearings you really should press the actual hub from the bearing housing before commencing any hammering. Otherwise pulling the hub/bearing housing off is a mute point unless you are indeed putting on the Kyo-en 22mm longer studs as the ones Tam used (3mm longer) will fit in without the need to pull the hubs off.
Another option would be to simply place a spacer (socket) of appropriate size which is slightly smaller in diameter than the o.d. of the hub under the end of the hub as it protrudes through the bearing this will isolate the bearings without the need to press the bearing housing and hub apart. Be carefull not to let the hub/spacer bounce around while hammering as this will damage the face of your hub where it meets the axle and could lead to you having to buy new hubs!! Best solution ultimately would be to press them in and out as this avoids the possibility of damaging either the hubs or the bearings not to mention your new studs.

evo_dadi

03-24-2006, 04:31 PM

we'll see how this project goes for me this weekend :shock:

evo_dadi

03-26-2006, 09:22 PM

so i finished changing my studs today and almost took me a good 5hrs,breaks was included so it was longer :lol: i couldnt really take advantage of the 1/2 ton arbor press that i bought since that sucker really had to be bolted down to a table to get the most of it so i just ended up doing the other way of using the lug to seat the studs in.

RRE wheel studs > stock studs :twisted:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album81/day_shots_113.sized.jpg

coudnt get a hold of deep sockets in time so i just opted for lots of lock washers and marshall gave me a tip on making sure the hub doesnt move while tightening the stud.

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album81/day_shots_117.sized.jpg

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album81/day_shots_118.sized.jpg

this is how bad i rubbed the first time i used the 275 ra1's at the recent autox.
passenger side
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album81/day_shots_121.sized.jpg

driver side
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album81/day_shots_119.sized.jpg

finished project 8)
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album81/day_shots_115.sized.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album81/day_shots_116.sized.jpg

missred

03-26-2006, 09:48 PM

Thanks for sharing picture instructions Marcel :P

EVO GRIM

03-27-2006, 08:15 AM

Nice work Marcel. Remember to keep torquing the lugs till they stop settling. I had 2 break off because they got loose :shock:

evo_dadi

03-27-2006, 11:49 AM

hmm i tightened them till they got flush to the hub so i didnt go more than that just in case i dont start spinning it :shock: :lol:

earlyapex

03-27-2006, 12:39 PM

is that frame rubbing only at full lock?

evo_dadi

03-27-2006, 02:47 PM

yep

earlyapex

03-27-2006, 02:49 PM

btw, you need to start using your brakes more, your dust boots should be all cracked and look like bacon. :wink:

vtluu

03-27-2006, 02:50 PM

I get the same rubbing, though maybe not quite as bad. It's mainly on the plastic bits though a little bit on the metal as well. I think it happens at full lock. It's ever been a problem for the tires at auto-x or track.

evo_dadi

03-27-2006, 02:53 PM

btw, you need to start using your brakes more, your dust boots should be all cracked and look like bacon. :wink:

huh?? but yeah they are cracked already and into small round sections :oops: :lol:

STR8DVS

03-27-2006, 02:58 PM

thanks for posting this. I have to replace the rear knuckle and was thinking that was the way to pull it off but was not sure. it is allways helpfull to see what some one elese did first.

vtluu

03-27-2006, 03:22 PM

Marcel, that rubbing was before you had the spacers, right?

evo_dadi

03-27-2006, 03:25 PM

yep no spacers,i believe the alignment specs were -2.5 in the front.getting to get a re-alignment done tomorrow and change it to -2.75 front and -1.5 rear.

*edit*

i just saw my sheet from the last alignment and it was actually -2.35 front with the camber bolt arrow pointing in.i flipped it yesterday facing outside to pick up some more negative camber

Cameron@xperformance

04-09-2006, 11:47 AM

as a side note, eXtreme Performance stocks longer wheel studs (ARP). PM me if you want pricing

Matz

09-01-2006, 10:23 PM

Yay, this thread is back from the dead. Great job on the writeup, Tam. Too bad the pics are gone, but the text was great.

Unfortunately, I'm not so good at following directions. I couldn't get the hub nut off, and then I started to loosen the calipers. I then picked up an air wrench and was playing with it, and ended up taking the calipers off.

Of course, this all slipped my mind later, and I pressed on the brake, and then couldn't put the calipers back on to loosen the nut. Had to go to my favorite store (Home Depot) to pick up a C-clamp to push the pads and pistons back in. So now I'm back at the beginning, but just can't get that damn nut off. I tried to do it myself by jamming a 2x4 between the brake and the seat frame, but that didn't work. I guess I'll have to ask my wife to hold the brake for me tomorrow morning. :(

vtluu

09-01-2006, 10:30 PM

Best thing to do is to break the axle nut loose with the car still fully on the ground. The torque spec on the nut isn't that extreme, 167 +/- 21 lb-ft. I use an axle nut socket and a 2' breaker bar. Easy breezy. (There's a lot of "wiggle room" in that torque spec so you can turn the nut to line up the castle nut to allow the cotter pin to poke through.)

On the stock calipers with the stock or Speed Bleeder bleed screws, you can usually pry open the pistons by hand, by opening the nearest bleed valve so you don't have to push fluid all the way back up the system. I found this doesn't work on my RB calipers with the Earl's Solo-Bleed screws (the PowerBleeder also doesn't work with the Earl's bleed screws :().

If you forget to break it loose on the ground, you'll need someone/something to hold the brakes and steering wheel firmly while you break it loose. Believe me, I've tried every other way as well. :lol:

Matz

09-01-2006, 11:23 PM

In other words, I should pop the center cap off, replace the wheel, and then do it? I was thinking that if I can't get the brakes to keep the hub in one place, I'll get some square bar stock and drill two holes on one end (for two of the studs), and the other end would rest on the ground. This should keep the hub from spinning.

vtluu

09-01-2006, 11:41 PM

In other words, I should pop the center cap off, replace the wheel, and then do it?

That's part of the reason why I left the center caps off my 5zigens.

I was thinking that if I can't get the brakes to keep the hub in one place, I'll get some square bar stock and drill two holes on one end (for two of the studs), and the other end would rest on the ground. This should keep the hub from spinning.

That's pretty much what the Mitsubishi "special tool" does.

Eclipse

09-02-2006, 08:18 AM

Crowbar braced between 2 studs does the same thing also. Plus in this case you don't even have to worry about fubarring the threads on the wheelstuds.

Matz

09-02-2006, 04:19 PM

At least you can pull the center cap off of the wheels easily. For the passenger side, I ended up using my hand and just pulled the cap off, then cracked the hub nut off (which was pretty tough for me). I've got the front hub off and the studs removed, but my impact wrench doesn't have enough guts to pull the new studs in. I guess I'll go in to the shop and press them in.

Matz

09-03-2006, 11:40 AM

Tam, one thing that's missing from this how-to is the explanation of how to get the hub nut back on. The FSM states that the wheel bearing should not be loaded when the nut is torqued, or the bearing will get damaged. Since I can't rely on the car's weight to keep the driveshaft from spinning, do I now really need to make that bar with the two holes drilled in it? Just curious. I've got the new front studs and hubs in (had to use the press), and want to get everything in the front back together. :)

Oh, one other thing -- what kind of torque wrench are you using? I can't get the one bolt on the top right of the driver side (and top left of the passenger side) tightened to spec because my only torque wrench that fits in the wheel well only goes up to 22 ft-lbs. Also I forgot to check my setting for the other 6 bolts :oops: and torqued to 88 ft-lbs (+1 ft-lb over max rating). I assume that this is okay, but do you think I should just set it to 80 and redo the bolts?

t12uspeed707

09-03-2006, 01:50 PM

since i can't see the pics... you guys are explaining how to put longer studs on the hub in order to get rims on the car that normally don't fit on the evos due to the brembo calipers... because if you are i gotta know how this can be done because i got a set of racing heart j8 from my 06 eclipse i wanted to put on but couldn't get the lugs to pass the lug openings only saw about two to three threads... thanks for your advice

Matz

09-03-2006, 02:12 PM

evo_dadi

09-03-2006, 08:55 PM

Matz

09-03-2006, 09:55 PM

I sure hope Sears is open tomorrow, as I am dying to finish up the fronts! Thanks for the tips, Marcel. Hopefully, I can find this wobble-extension :lol: and then I can also get the coilovers in.

Matz

09-07-2006, 04:37 AM

Can the mods sticky this thread? It was very helpful.

evo_dadi

09-07-2006, 05:28 PM

Can the mods sticky this thread? It was very helpful.

+1

lqdchkn

04-21-2007, 08:11 PM

Tam- Can you find the pics again?

Matz

04-22-2007, 06:53 AM

Tam- Can you find the pics again?

What part did you need help with? I've disassembled my front hub before to replace the studs.

lqdchkn

04-22-2007, 02:14 PM

Tam- Can you find the pics again?

What part did you need help with? I've disassembled my front hub before to replace the studs.

More that I just wanted to see what was involved. Not planning on doing it yet. Thanks for the help.

Matz

04-22-2007, 03:28 PM

More that I just wanted to see what was involved. Not planning on doing it yet. Thanks for the help.

Ah, okay. I replaced my studs with OEM studs, but the process is probably the same. Pretty easy!

Things I remember doing from my stud replacement:
1. Turn the front wheel to get access to the bolts holding in the calipers
2. Used zip ties to hold the part behind the hub in place
3. Hammering out studs is good. Hammering in studs is not. I think you can use washers + impact wrench to get them in. I used an arbor press.
4. I used a 2x4 to press the brake pedal down so I could get the big nut off of the hub.

trinydex

10-08-2007, 10:42 AM

can i ever get the pics for this how to?