For all those running an amp(s) w/o a capacitor...

[DaveLC2]

I installed a single amp (RF Punch 250) and 1-10" JL Audio sub in my Evo a couple of weeks ago and was having an issue with dimming lights when I really turn it up. I've ran this amp in 2 other cars and have never had this problem before. In fact I was using 2-12" JL's in the other cars. I guess the charging system needs a little help in this car. I am also running a little thicker cable for power which is probably allowing more of a draw. I didn't really notice a power drop while driving around with my system playing but I did not like the whole dimming light thing so I just uninstalled the amp for the time being. After I disconnected the amp I noticed my car felt stronger (with the gear still in the car) so even at low volume levels the amp must have been causing a voltage drop to the fuel pump resulting in less flow volume. That's why my car felt stronger when I disconnect the power to the amp. The fuel pressure was affected by this. I am all stock and don't have any fp or voltage drop numbers but it would be interesting to see what they are. This could be a huge problem for people that are modified or are running higher than stock boost settings. I am not going to reconnect my amp until I install a cap and until I can figure out how to make my sub not slide around the trunk when I take my favorite corners. I told my friend this who is running 2 amps (w/o a cap) in a 98 Civic si and he disconnected his power and noticed his car ran stronger as well. Just thought I'd put the word out there

Dave

[AreSTG]

i think our cars cahe a shitty alternator...

this is becuase on my stock POS speakers and HU turned up with the bass on i get a 1-2 volt drop on every bass hit. Thats alot for a weak stock system. My wifes Celica sounds twice as loud/good/bassy and theres nothing noticable happening to it(though i have no volt-guage in it)

[warpspeed]

If you are running big cams this will happen also and running those smaller battery. I always run capacitors on all my stereo that I know will be drawing alot of amperage. Or sometimes I would run an auxilary battery just for the stereo. That is why HyperVoltage claim their box stabilizes the voltage in any car electrical so the ecu and sensors will get the correct inputs. OOpps, didn't mean to hi-jack the thread. :oops:

[DaveLC2]

If you are running big cams this will happen also and running those smaller battery. I always run capacitors on all my stereo that I know will be drawing alot of amperage. Or sometimes I would run an auxilary battery just for the stereo. That is why HyperVoltage claim their box stabilizes the voltage in any car electrical so the ecu and sensors will get the correct inputs. OOpps, didn't mean to hi-jack the thread. :oops:

No worries about jacking the thread. I know in the Turbo Buick world they have a "Hot wire" kit for the fuel pump and it increases the voltage to the fuel pump thus giving you a little extra flow & insurance from running lean and popping a head gasket or melting a piston. Don't ask me how I know this :lol:

Dave

[lqdchkn]

Whaddup, thought I'd offer some input. I'm running a Pioneer deck (standard 50 x4), Pioneer 3-ways in the doors, a JL 250 monoblock and a Kicker L7 10" with no dimming or other probs.

Where'd you ground your amp?

[DaveLC2]

Whaddup, thought I'd offer some input. I'm running a Pioneer deck (standard 50 x4), Pioneer 3-ways in the doors, a JL 250 monoblock and a Kicker L7 10" with no dimming or other probs.

Where'd you ground your amp?

Damn I didn't see your reply. I am grounded to a nice flat surface on the under side of the rear deck. I think my problem is that I went way too BIG on the power wire. I am only running a RF Punch 250 but I will probably run a JL 1000/1 when I go with a 12W6 in the future. I didn't want to hassle with re-routing the power wire but I screwed with fat wire. It's not 0 guage but it's like 4 guage or something. That's my problem.

Dave

[evo_runner]

All that you have to do is get an optima battery and a 1 farad cap. and you hould be fine with your voltage on your battery.

[earlyapex]

No worries about jacking the thread. I know in the Turbo Buick world they have a "Hot wire" kit for the fuel pump and it increases the voltage to the fuel pump thus giving you a little extra flow & insurance from running lean and popping a head gasket or melting a piston. Don't ask me how I know this :lol:

Dave

That is a DSM trick too. The EVO does not need this because it has better/different fuel pump circuitry:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo/tech/fuelpumpinfo.htm