b0yw0nder
12-06-2005, 12:50 AM
Stuff I Used:
-GFB BOV
-Long phillips screw driver
-Stubby phillips screw driver
-Pliers (needle nose will be a pain in the ass)
-Ratchet with 10mm socket
-2mm allen key
-Locktite (blue! NOT RED)
-M4x8mm 0.7pitch set screw from ace hardware (may not be required)
-0.250in plastic screw rivet from pepboys(may not be required depending on what type were used on your car)
-Big flat head screw driver (not pictured)
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/1_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/2_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/5_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/3_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/15_G.jpg
Wow, that last one looks sick gross.
Could/Should have used:
-Drill with very small drill bit
Official install guide from gofastbits.com:
http://www.gofastbits.com.au/index.php?parentid=guides&option=guides&sub_option=bovs&sub_sub_option=1008
1.Inspect the BOV and get used to it's operation. The chrome cap should rotate in both directions with stops on both sides to increase or decrease spring tension. The black ring should spin freely 360 degrees to change the orientation of the vacuum nipple. The next black body section (noise ring) should rotate to adjust the amount of atmosphere/recirc (AND NOISE!). I would also recommend that you lube the piston if you didn't get it new. Put a little oil onto the piston through trumpet and move it up and down manually.
This is where I discovered that the set screw holding the chrome cap on mine was not properly fastened.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/4_G.jpg
If yours does that, definately follow 1a->1c, but I would recommend it for everyone, especially if you're buying a used component.
1a. Unscrew the set screw located in this hole:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/7_G.jpg
I picked up 2 new set screws but it looks like only one was required because the hole opposite of the one pictured above was not drilled/tapped all the way to the center section.
1b. Put some locktite juice on the set screw and also on the threaded shaft of the BOV. Don't go bananas on it but get enough on there. Use the BLUE stuff, not the red.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/6_G.jpg
1c. Screw the cap on as tight as you can get it and then put the set screw in and tighten it sufficiently. Too loose and the cap will just screw off, too tight and you'll never get it apart again.
2. This is what you'll be starting with. Since your fingers will be dangerously close to the fan shroud eventually, I would recommend disconnecting the negative so that in case you short the fan and start it up, you don't lose any fingers. I should have done this but didn't know how or if it would lock my stereo. JUST DO IT AND BE SAFE! Don't do what Donny don't does.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/8_G.jpg
Star by removing the air scoop. I had a hell of a time with this because it seems as though over the years, Mitsubishi has used different fasteners. Some of the earlier ones used fasteners that could be unscrewed, some the fastener can be pushed from the bottom upwards, some the center could just be pushed downwards through the center but in 05 they are plastic rivets that probably have to be drilled out and replaced.
At the factory, they put the rivet in through the top and then pull the shaft up and outwards until the plastic yields and breaks off. While the shaft is being pulled upwards, the lower body bends outwards stopping it from being pulled back up through the hole. Since the shaft and body are threaded, as the shaft is pulled upwards, it snaps into place.
Here's what they looked like after I tried pushing the centers using a screw driver:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/9_G.jpg
I ended up using the brute force method with a large flat head screwdriver to break them and replaced them later on with some that I got at pepboys. The downside was that I scratched the scoop a little bit.
Like I said, I would probably just drill them out. If you're really careful/gentle if you put a screw driver in the end of them you might be able to twist them such that the center pulls up and out. BUT I DOUBT IT.
If you do it my way, likely you'll drop half of it down. You can recover them (or tools that you drop during the install) by opening the center section of the skidplate. It's attached with about 9 plastic screws and 2 metal ones that you can undo with a stubby phillips. Shake it and you should find your stuff. LEAVE IT UNDONE UNTIL YOU ARE COMPLETELY DONE! I made that mistake and and had to open it twice to retreive my dropped tools.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/10_G.jpg
3.Remove the BOV. Here it is in the stock form:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/11_G.jpg
Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the lower pipe clamp and the long phillips screw driver to remove the upper one. Loosen them as much as you can and push them down their respective hoses so that they don't drop down into the skid plate. You'll need twisting and pulling action to get the stock BOV off. Undo the upper vacuum hose clamp using the pliers and leave the clamp at the BOV attached.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/12_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/13_G.jpg
4.Install the GFB BOV. Before installing though, set it to the softest spring setting (as far to the anti-clockwise side as possible). It helps if you have the noise ring set to the furthest anti-clockwise stop (quietest).
If you're a T-bolt freak, put em on there now while you have everything apart.
Lube up the ends of the BOV and the insides of the hoses with some spit to help getting them on there. Once the BOV is inplace, tighten up the pipe clamps. Don't tighten them too tight cause you'll wreck the track on them. Tighten them till they are tight and then come back in a week or two and tighten them up a little more.
I attached the vacuum tube after the BOV was attached to the 2 other hoses so that I could get it in the best position with no kinks. It made it a little tough to attach the vacuum tube clamp at the BOV end so you might want to attach that side of the vacuum tube before you attach the BOV to the other hoses. Just make sure that you have no kinks in the vacuum hose. You can twist the vacuum nipple ring to aid your battle in avoiding kinks.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/14_G.jpg
5.Tune it. Before you reinstall the air scoop, you should tune the BOV a little bit. Turn the noise ring to the a point where you can see the piston through the trumpet. I set mine about 7 clicks from the furthest clockwise (loudest) setting. Start the car up and get it warmed up and idling. Twist the butterfly valve on the throttle body or get someone to stab at the throttle in the car for you. You should see the piston lift and go back into place. If it sticks, in place, the spring preload is not enough. Shut the car down, and twist the chrome cap 1 or 2 turns clock wise. I found it was easiest to turn the chrome cap with the noise ring set to the loudest setting..clockwise side) If you do this, make sure to set your noise ring back to the original setting so that you are starting at the same point as before. Continue the process until the spring preload is set such that you get good response from the piston. If you got it new, I think you should go back and retune it after a couple weeks. The same thing goes for when you install it used as well probably.
I ended up settling on 5.5 turns from the lowest preload and 7 clicks from the loudest. I think I need to lube the piston a little bit and tune the preload a little more. Even at 7 clicks its still pretty loud!
6.Reinstall the air scoop. I used new fasteners I got from Pepboys because the ones I had were busted from my brute force method. These ones have phillips tops so that they can be easily taken out again to tune the BOV.
Also reinstall the center part of the skidplate if you opened it up.
-GFB BOV
-Long phillips screw driver
-Stubby phillips screw driver
-Pliers (needle nose will be a pain in the ass)
-Ratchet with 10mm socket
-2mm allen key
-Locktite (blue! NOT RED)
-M4x8mm 0.7pitch set screw from ace hardware (may not be required)
-0.250in plastic screw rivet from pepboys(may not be required depending on what type were used on your car)
-Big flat head screw driver (not pictured)
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/1_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/2_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/5_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/3_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/15_G.jpg
Wow, that last one looks sick gross.
Could/Should have used:
-Drill with very small drill bit
Official install guide from gofastbits.com:
http://www.gofastbits.com.au/index.php?parentid=guides&option=guides&sub_option=bovs&sub_sub_option=1008
1.Inspect the BOV and get used to it's operation. The chrome cap should rotate in both directions with stops on both sides to increase or decrease spring tension. The black ring should spin freely 360 degrees to change the orientation of the vacuum nipple. The next black body section (noise ring) should rotate to adjust the amount of atmosphere/recirc (AND NOISE!). I would also recommend that you lube the piston if you didn't get it new. Put a little oil onto the piston through trumpet and move it up and down manually.
This is where I discovered that the set screw holding the chrome cap on mine was not properly fastened.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/4_G.jpg
If yours does that, definately follow 1a->1c, but I would recommend it for everyone, especially if you're buying a used component.
1a. Unscrew the set screw located in this hole:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/7_G.jpg
I picked up 2 new set screws but it looks like only one was required because the hole opposite of the one pictured above was not drilled/tapped all the way to the center section.
1b. Put some locktite juice on the set screw and also on the threaded shaft of the BOV. Don't go bananas on it but get enough on there. Use the BLUE stuff, not the red.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/6_G.jpg
1c. Screw the cap on as tight as you can get it and then put the set screw in and tighten it sufficiently. Too loose and the cap will just screw off, too tight and you'll never get it apart again.
2. This is what you'll be starting with. Since your fingers will be dangerously close to the fan shroud eventually, I would recommend disconnecting the negative so that in case you short the fan and start it up, you don't lose any fingers. I should have done this but didn't know how or if it would lock my stereo. JUST DO IT AND BE SAFE! Don't do what Donny don't does.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/8_G.jpg
Star by removing the air scoop. I had a hell of a time with this because it seems as though over the years, Mitsubishi has used different fasteners. Some of the earlier ones used fasteners that could be unscrewed, some the fastener can be pushed from the bottom upwards, some the center could just be pushed downwards through the center but in 05 they are plastic rivets that probably have to be drilled out and replaced.
At the factory, they put the rivet in through the top and then pull the shaft up and outwards until the plastic yields and breaks off. While the shaft is being pulled upwards, the lower body bends outwards stopping it from being pulled back up through the hole. Since the shaft and body are threaded, as the shaft is pulled upwards, it snaps into place.
Here's what they looked like after I tried pushing the centers using a screw driver:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/9_G.jpg
I ended up using the brute force method with a large flat head screwdriver to break them and replaced them later on with some that I got at pepboys. The downside was that I scratched the scoop a little bit.
Like I said, I would probably just drill them out. If you're really careful/gentle if you put a screw driver in the end of them you might be able to twist them such that the center pulls up and out. BUT I DOUBT IT.
If you do it my way, likely you'll drop half of it down. You can recover them (or tools that you drop during the install) by opening the center section of the skidplate. It's attached with about 9 plastic screws and 2 metal ones that you can undo with a stubby phillips. Shake it and you should find your stuff. LEAVE IT UNDONE UNTIL YOU ARE COMPLETELY DONE! I made that mistake and and had to open it twice to retreive my dropped tools.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/10_G.jpg
3.Remove the BOV. Here it is in the stock form:
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/11_G.jpg
Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the lower pipe clamp and the long phillips screw driver to remove the upper one. Loosen them as much as you can and push them down their respective hoses so that they don't drop down into the skid plate. You'll need twisting and pulling action to get the stock BOV off. Undo the upper vacuum hose clamp using the pliers and leave the clamp at the BOV attached.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/12_G.jpg
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/13_G.jpg
4.Install the GFB BOV. Before installing though, set it to the softest spring setting (as far to the anti-clockwise side as possible). It helps if you have the noise ring set to the furthest anti-clockwise stop (quietest).
If you're a T-bolt freak, put em on there now while you have everything apart.
Lube up the ends of the BOV and the insides of the hoses with some spit to help getting them on there. Once the BOV is inplace, tighten up the pipe clamps. Don't tighten them too tight cause you'll wreck the track on them. Tighten them till they are tight and then come back in a week or two and tighten them up a little more.
I attached the vacuum tube after the BOV was attached to the 2 other hoses so that I could get it in the best position with no kinks. It made it a little tough to attach the vacuum tube clamp at the BOV end so you might want to attach that side of the vacuum tube before you attach the BOV to the other hoses. Just make sure that you have no kinks in the vacuum hose. You can twist the vacuum nipple ring to aid your battle in avoiding kinks.
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album373/14_G.jpg
5.Tune it. Before you reinstall the air scoop, you should tune the BOV a little bit. Turn the noise ring to the a point where you can see the piston through the trumpet. I set mine about 7 clicks from the furthest clockwise (loudest) setting. Start the car up and get it warmed up and idling. Twist the butterfly valve on the throttle body or get someone to stab at the throttle in the car for you. You should see the piston lift and go back into place. If it sticks, in place, the spring preload is not enough. Shut the car down, and twist the chrome cap 1 or 2 turns clock wise. I found it was easiest to turn the chrome cap with the noise ring set to the loudest setting..clockwise side) If you do this, make sure to set your noise ring back to the original setting so that you are starting at the same point as before. Continue the process until the spring preload is set such that you get good response from the piston. If you got it new, I think you should go back and retune it after a couple weeks. The same thing goes for when you install it used as well probably.
I ended up settling on 5.5 turns from the lowest preload and 7 clicks from the loudest. I think I need to lube the piston a little bit and tune the preload a little more. Even at 7 clicks its still pretty loud!
6.Reinstall the air scoop. I used new fasteners I got from Pepboys because the ones I had were busted from my brute force method. These ones have phillips tops so that they can be easily taken out again to tune the BOV.
Also reinstall the center part of the skidplate if you opened it up.