EvolvedDSM
03-14-2004, 03:01 PM
I'll start on the inside as you will remain cleaner vs. going under the hood ;) First, the goods:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0014_999.jpg
I ordered these from Speed Source (http://www.speed-source.net/) on Monday and they were delivered Saturday. These are the exact same ones seen elsewhere, but by ordering direct, you cut out the middle-man and save ($56 shipped for both). I was pleasantly surprised with their packaging and attention to detail.
Instructions were included, but the ones for the base bushings were for a DSM (same parts for either vehicle)--my only complaint and it's a very small one:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/shiftinst.jpg
My version differed slightly. Remove your console as described here (http://www.norcalevo.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=449). You'll notice the four bolts holding the shifter base to the car (one of which is partially blocked by the shift cable). You'll also notice the base can be moved from side to side due the the rubber material the stock bushings are made of:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0032.jpg
Remove the cotter pin holding the aforementioned cable to the shift lever:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0035.jpg
Slide the cable off and tuck it on the backside of the lever:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0037.jpg
All four 12mm bolts should be removed. The bushings can be pushed out rather easily via a flat-head screw driver:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0038.jpg
With the stock bushings out, one set of the replacement bushings can be placed beneath the shifter base (grooved side up). Make sure they are seated properly (you can feel/see it):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0040.jpg
Repeat with the other set of bushings on top of the shifter base (grooved side down). Install bolts and torque to 102 in-lbs (8.5 ft-lbs). Slide cable back onto lever and reinstall cotter pin (the shifter base should not move at all):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0042.jpg
Replace center console and pop the hood. The shift cables meet the tranny just under the front strut bar on the driver's side between the center of the car and the brake/clutch reservoir:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0044.jpg
Remove the cotter pins (curved needle-nose pliers work great) and expect the washer to fall onto the subframe below (magnetic pick-up tool works great). With the pins and washers out of the way, you can pop the cable ends off of the levers. The screwdriver trick shown above will release the bushings (expect them to fall as well--sorry, they're not magnetic ;)):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0050.jpg
Use the included sandpaper to clean up the posts and spray with brake cleaner to remove any debris. Insert brass bushing into cable end (flat end towards lever) and secure with e-clip. Apply a light amount of grease to post and insert cable/bushing assembly. Secure with cotter pin (I reused the OEM clips as they appeared less likely to come off--do not use OEM washer):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0052.jpg
A few comparison/misc. pics:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0039.jpg
Initial impressions: Just sitting still, you can feel a difference--very solid at the end of the shift throw. Nothing dramatic, but the sponginess is definitely gone. While driving, it's just easier to shift. After a short run, I have regained confidence in the 1-2 shift at high RPMs. I was amazed how soft and pliable the stock rubber bushings were under the hood. Over time, as they break down due to heat/age, the difference will become even more apparent.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0014_999.jpg
I ordered these from Speed Source (http://www.speed-source.net/) on Monday and they were delivered Saturday. These are the exact same ones seen elsewhere, but by ordering direct, you cut out the middle-man and save ($56 shipped for both). I was pleasantly surprised with their packaging and attention to detail.
Instructions were included, but the ones for the base bushings were for a DSM (same parts for either vehicle)--my only complaint and it's a very small one:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/shiftinst.jpg
My version differed slightly. Remove your console as described here (http://www.norcalevo.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=449). You'll notice the four bolts holding the shifter base to the car (one of which is partially blocked by the shift cable). You'll also notice the base can be moved from side to side due the the rubber material the stock bushings are made of:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0032.jpg
Remove the cotter pin holding the aforementioned cable to the shift lever:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0035.jpg
Slide the cable off and tuck it on the backside of the lever:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0037.jpg
All four 12mm bolts should be removed. The bushings can be pushed out rather easily via a flat-head screw driver:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0038.jpg
With the stock bushings out, one set of the replacement bushings can be placed beneath the shifter base (grooved side up). Make sure they are seated properly (you can feel/see it):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0040.jpg
Repeat with the other set of bushings on top of the shifter base (grooved side down). Install bolts and torque to 102 in-lbs (8.5 ft-lbs). Slide cable back onto lever and reinstall cotter pin (the shifter base should not move at all):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0042.jpg
Replace center console and pop the hood. The shift cables meet the tranny just under the front strut bar on the driver's side between the center of the car and the brake/clutch reservoir:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0044.jpg
Remove the cotter pins (curved needle-nose pliers work great) and expect the washer to fall onto the subframe below (magnetic pick-up tool works great). With the pins and washers out of the way, you can pop the cable ends off of the levers. The screwdriver trick shown above will release the bushings (expect them to fall as well--sorry, they're not magnetic ;)):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0050.jpg
Use the included sandpaper to clean up the posts and spray with brake cleaner to remove any debris. Insert brass bushing into cable end (flat end towards lever) and secure with e-clip. Apply a light amount of grease to post and insert cable/bushing assembly. Secure with cotter pin (I reused the OEM clips as they appeared less likely to come off--do not use OEM washer):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0052.jpg
A few comparison/misc. pics:
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/dscf0039.jpg
Initial impressions: Just sitting still, you can feel a difference--very solid at the end of the shift throw. Nothing dramatic, but the sponginess is definitely gone. While driving, it's just easier to shift. After a short run, I have regained confidence in the 1-2 shift at high RPMs. I was amazed how soft and pliable the stock rubber bushings were under the hood. Over time, as they break down due to heat/age, the difference will become even more apparent.