Wheel spacers

[EVO GRIM]

I got some wheel spacers from summit that are crap. The holes are oversized so there's no way to keep them centered. I allready spent the time and $ to put longer wheel studs. So I'm looking for a recommendation on a brand of good quality wheel spacers. Anybody?

[byt]

I've heard great things about H&R spacers. Not sure what they offer for evos but their miata ones are top notch and hubcentric.

[chrisw]

I've heard great things about H&R spacers. Not sure what they offer for evos but their miata ones are top notch and hubcentric.

+1 One of my next upcoming purchases

[vtluu]

I got the H&R 5mm spacers. They come with longer wheel studs but they're only 3mm longer than stock studs. With the 5zigen FN01RCs this gave me about 7 threads (turns) on the lug nuts until full torque. I didn't feel comfortable with this and ended up getting longer studs in front from RRE. Anyway the H&R ones are nice; get them without the studs if possible.

Getting your own machined is another possibility. Spacers should be a no-brainer to make.

[EVO GRIM]

That was the only thing keepin me from the h&r is that they come with studs. I'm also affraid that 5mm isn't going to be enough. My camber in the front was going to be maxed out at -3, so I swapped the eccentric bolt to get me some more room, but that put the strut that much closer to the wheel. I was hoping for an 8mm-10 mm but h&r only makes 5 and 15mm.

Any other trusted brands?

[vtluu]

Before I had the spacers, I had to run the eccentric camber bolt in the "less camber" position to avoid the tire rubbing on the springs since that tilts the top of the tire away from the strut. With the 5mm spacer I was able run full negative camber again (-3 degrees) with no rubbing. ChrisW claims 3mm is enough, so 5mm should be plenty. I do get some very slight wear marks on my springs--paint rubbed off--but I don't see any wear on the tires. I'm guessing that there's some slight rubbing, occasionally, under hard cornering, but not enough to cause a problem.

I'm running 17x9 5zigens with a 35mm offset, 275/40-17 tires.

[chrisw]

That was the only thing keepin me from the h&r is that they come with studs. I'm also affraid that 5mm isn't going to be enough. My camber in the front was going to be maxed out at -3, so I swapped the eccentric bolt to get me some more room, but that put the strut that much closer to the wheel. I was hoping for an 8mm-10 mm but h&r only makes 5 and 15mm.

Any other trusted brands?

As Tam pointed out I am only using 3mm spacers. While the 3mm spacers work, I think the 5mm spacer will be enough to prevent most of the rubbing issues I have on the inner fender liners.

When Navid pointed out that the an 8" spring would raise the lower spring perches enough to clear the tire, I switched to 8" springs from a 10" spring. this let me use the maximum camber setting to keep the roll center where you need it.

[Jamie@WORKS]

We're using the H&R 25mm spacers on the WORKS Time Attack EVO and they've done a great job. (We did roll the fender some with 255/40 17s on 17x9 +35.) We have a set of H&R 15mm in stock if anyone's interested :)

[earlyapex]

We're using the H&R 25mm spacers on the WORKS Time Attack EVO and they've done a great job. (We did roll the fender some with 255/40 17s on 17x9 +35.) We have a set of H&R 15mm in stock if anyone's interested :)

25mm jayzus krist. Almost an inch??? :shock:

[EVO GRIM]

Thanks 5mm sounds good then. Need to find them with out studs.

[Jamie@WORKS]

We're using the H&R 25mm spacers on the WORKS Time Attack EVO and they've done a great job. (We did roll the fender some with 255/40 17s on 17x9 +35.) We have a set of H&R 15mm in stock if anyone's interested :)

25mm jayzus krist. Almost an inch??? :shock:

Almost...

:)

[ZK]

I've run 15mm H&R spacers with extended studs before for street and track, they work fine. 5mm should be no problem and you should have no fitment issues.

Unfortunately the H&R only come with extended studs, you can't get them seperately.

[evo_dadi]

since were in the topic of spacers and tire widths i have some questions also for the guys running 275 tires.im planning on running 275 ra1's on the fno1rc's but im not gonna be running razy camber settings on it,its just gonna be more like between -2 to -2.5 in the front.so would a spacer be necessary still for the front?i know im gonna be rolling the fenders on the back so im just wondering how the front is gonna be.

[chrisw]

since were in the topic of spacers and tire widths i have some questions also for the guys running 275 tires.im planning on running 275 ra1's on the fno1rc's but im not gonna be running razy camber settings on it,its just gonna be more like between -2 to -2.5 in the front.so would a spacer be necessary still for the front?i know im gonna be rolling the fenders on the back so im just wondering how the front is gonna be.

You wil want the spacer to move the tire away from the inner fender wells. Even at 3mm, I rub on full lock, and a little bit when your hard over in a corner.

How much of a spacer or how much rubbing is up to your "comfort level". When autocrossing, I am ok with what rubbing I have. I will even ride on the race ruber down to Marina.

But for track days, I think I would want less rubbing because of the higher speeds and the longer duration of the higher g-loads in corners compared to what we encounter in autocross.

[earlyapex]

When the heck are you at full lock on the track or even an autocross? Maybe when you are spinning? 8) :?

Even my stock wheels with 255 RA1's rub the fender liner at full lock. The liner is just plastic and gets worn down. I guess there could be the chance of it catching and getting ripped off but mine are pretty much worn down and don't rub at all anymore.

I only heard rubbing at full lock when do a u-turn or 3-point parking job.

On both 255 RA1's on 17x8 stock rims and 255 T1R's 17x9 5zigen +35.

I think the main thing you have to watch for with the 17x9 5zigen +35 with 275 tires is the clearance of tire to coilover in the front. It depends on what coilovers you have with what length and size springs. It also depends on how much negative camber you plan on running. -2.0 will probably have no problem. -2.5 and above you might be getting there. Of course, you already know, you will have to roll the fenders in the rear with 275's..

You could also save yourself the headaches and just run 255 RA1's for now . It's still a bit of grip. :D

[vtluu]

I think the 5mm spacer will be enough to prevent most of the rubbing issues I have on the inner fender liners.
Nope, and I've got a couple big holes worn through my fender liner (but only on the right side, hmm) to prove it. :lol:

Next time I replace the fender liner, I'll use those holes as a guide when I'll use a heat gun to bend back those parts of the fender liner. Not that I care all that much about it.

[evo_dadi]

I think the main thing you have to watch for with the 17x9 5zigen +35 with 275 tires is the clearance of tire to coilover in the front. It depends on what coilovers you have with what length and size springs. It also depends on how much negative camber you plan on running. -2.0 will probably have no problem. -2.5 and above you might be getting there. Of course, you already know, you will have to roll the fenders in the rear with 275's..

You could also save yourself the headaches and just run 255 RA1's for now . It's still a bit of grip. :D

the ra1's i have on right now is 235's and still has plenty of threadlife to kill so im gonna finish them first then pop the 275's later on :twisted: .and i have the buddyclubs for the coilovers,ill probly give them a call if they make shorter springs so i can clear up some more room in the front.i know later on im gonna get the rear rolled up as well so i just wanna make sure i do the work in front as well ...just in case they do start rubbing :P but im hoping i can get away with -2.5 up front w/o any bad rubbing.

[EVO GRIM]

You should be able to get springs from anybody. Just check the inside diameter and springrate. Would be sweet to send the to mueler to set up.

[chrisw]

I think the 5mm spacer will be enough to prevent most of the rubbing issues I have on the inner fender liners.
Nope, and I've got a couple big holes worn through my fender liner (but only on the right side, hmm) to prove it. :lol:

Next time I replace the fender liner, I'll use those holes as a guide when I'll use a heat gun to bend back those parts of the fender liner. Not that I care all that much about it.

I did qualify that with "most" :lol:

[chrisw]

When the heck are you at full lock on the track or even an autocross? Maybe when you are spinning? 8) :?


tight hairpins, sharp corners that give you alot of body roll, etc...



Even my stock wheels with 255 RA1's rub the fender liner at full lock. The liner is just plastic and gets worn down. I guess there could be the chance of it catching and getting ripped off but mine are pretty much worn down and don't rub at all anymore.

I only heard rubbing at full lock when do a u-turn or 3-point parking job.


ok. but the 255 sized RA1 does not have a 11.4" sectional width, not even close. 8)



On both 255 RA1's on 17x8 stock rims and 255 T1R's 17x9 5zigen +35.

I think the main thing you have to watch for with the 17x9 5zigen +35 with 275 tires is the clearance of tire to coilover in the front. It depends on what coilovers you have with what length and size springs. It also depends on how much negative camber you plan on running. -2.0 will probably have no problem. -2.5 and above you might be getting there. Of course, you already know, you will have to roll the fenders in the rear with 275's..

You could also save yourself the headaches and just run 255 RA1's for now . It's still a bit of grip. :D

like I said earlier, if you use an 8" spring, the lower spring perch is high enough to give you all the tire to coilover clearance you need.

[earlyapex]

When the heck are you at full lock on the track or even an autocross? Maybe when you are spinning? 8) :?


tight hairpins, sharp corners that give you alot of body roll, etc...



Dude, are you talking about full steering lock or full suspension compression? How does body roll effect if you are at full lock or not? If you at full steering lock in a evo you are spinning around in tight circles. There is absolutly NO WAY you are at full steering lock in autox or open track unless you are trying to save yourself from a spin or are in a spin.

[earlyapex]

the ra1's i have on right now is 235's and still has plenty of threadlife to kill so im gonna finish them first then pop the 275's later on :twisted: .and i have the buddyclubs for the coilovers,ill probly give them a call if they make shorter springs so i can clear up some more room in the front.i know later on im gonna get the rear rolled up as well so i just wanna make sure i do the work in front as well ...just in case they do start rubbing :P but im hoping i can get away with -2.5 up front w/o any bad rubbing.

Talk to Percy, he is running the 5zigen 17x9's with 275 RA1's and buddyclub coilovers. I can't remember if he is running a spacer or not. His car is setup really low too by Mueller.

[evo_dadi]

oh yeah thats right.ill try to give him a call later.

[SJCoruja]

Sorry, back from the dead. :D

Anyone have thoughts on running 15mm spacers in the front and 5mm in the rear? I currently have 18x9 +40 rims, and would love to go for some 275 tires some time soon. Will the 15mm front spacers actually bring it out too far, or will I actually need them (for the rears) to even out the offset?

[vtluu]

I think you may have rubbing issues in back with 275s, 35mm offset and 5mm spacers.

[smack]

Sorry, back from the dead. :D

Anyone have thoughts on running 15mm spacers in the front and 5mm in the rear? I currently have 18x9 +40 rims, and would love to go for some 275 tires some time soon. Will the 15mm front spacers actually bring it out too far, or will I actually need them (for the rears) to even out the offset?

i don't think you would even need them for the rears. and the narrower rear will help the car
rotate as well. if you go no spacers on rear and you're running an adjustable rear bar
i would probably back off a notch. just until you get a feel for the new balance of the car.

[SJCoruja]

Tam - Was going to roll the fenders so hoping I won't get rubbing on the outside...concerned about the inner though.

Smack - Yeah, was thinking no on the rear spacers but wasn't sure if I at least needed the 5mm to make up for the aftermarket wheel offset (40mm). Will I run in to rubbing issues without them on the inner well? That is why I was thinking to go 15mm in front and then the 5mm in the back if needed...

[vtluu]

Tam - Was going to roll the fenders so hoping I won't get rubbing on the outside...concerned about the inner though.
Rolling the fenders will allow 275s to fit with 35mm offset. With a 5mm spacer you might get rubbing on the outside fender again. Inside doesn't seem to be an issue though I haven't looked to see how much clearance I have on either side. I'll check, next time I have the rear shocks/springs off. People have run 285s in the back and I'm guessing it's by running a higher offset (+40mm maybe) in combination with 18" wheels (to clear the suspension arms I think). It really depends how much dynamic camber the rear suspension gets under compression. I know with 255s (and unmodified fenders) it looked like it would rub for sure, and it didn't. With 275s (and rolled fenders) it's the same way--looks for sure like it will rub, but it doesn't.

[smack]

the thing you need to watch for is rubbing on the springs. i don't remember any clearance
issues in the rear except the lower arm but since you're going to an 18" you'll be fine.
i think you'll still need to roll the fenders a bit but you might get away with it.
he narrower wheel will pull the tire in a little and the extra 5mm that the wheel goes inboard will help too. it will be close.

[MarkSAE]

Anyone have a picture of the H&R 5mm spacer and the studs that are included w/ it? Are they hubcentric?

I was thinking about getting the wheel studs that are 14mm longer than stock from Racing Brake and putting the H&R studs in the rear.

For clarification, w/ the camber bolt on the more aggressive setting (less clearance), a 5mm spacer will be enough to clear 275/40/17 tires w/ the 17x9 +35 5-Zigen wheel?

[SJCoruja]

Tam had great how-to on installing that H&R kit with plenty of pics I believe. And yes, they are hubcentric.

[MarkSAE]

Yeah, all the pics on his how-to thread are gone.

I should have been more specfic about the hubcentric question.Â* Are the spacers hubcentric to the hub only?Â* Or does the spacer also have its own wheel centering guide?

[SJCoruja]

Doh, thought the pics were still up. I think he did it on EvoM so maybe they're there still. The 5mm spacers are only hubcentric to the hub and do not have a wheel centering guide. I've been told that you need at least a 15mm spacer to have room for/need a wheel guide.


Edit: just checked EvoM and the pics are gone from there also.

[vtluu]

What Matt said.

The pics were hosted on NCE and disappeared after the site software update.

[Matz]

Yeah, it's because Tam got all pissed way back and deleted his account like earlyapex. :lol:

EDIT -- Man, Tam ninja edited his post on me! So that's why, eh? I thought it was related to your old account.

[vtluu]

The site software update happened long before that. At that time, everybody's galleries disappeared. As far as I know, they were never restored.

[MarkSAE]

For clarification, w/ the camber bolt on the more aggressive setting (less clearance), a 5mm spacer will be enough to clear 275/40/17 tires w/ the 17x9 +35 5-Zigen wheel?


Ahem. Back to my previous question. Or will I need a thicker spacer?

[vtluu]

That's the spacer thickness I use with the same wheel and same sized tires.

[MarkSAE]

And you're using the less or more aggressive camber bolt setting?

[redvolution]

Mark, are you planning to use 275-40s with stock suspension? I don't remember if you have upgraded...

[MarkSAE]

I have Zeal Function V6 coilovers right now. My concern is the tire rubbing against the spring if I go to 275/40/17 tires. I guess I'll have to do some measuring on my car to get an idea of how much clearance I have currently.

[MarkSAE]

Tam, have you had any problems centering the wheel w/ the spacer?

[earlyapex aka jack ass]

Mark, I thought you said you weren't going to go to 275's?

[MarkSAE]

haha.. now that I need to get new tires soon, I'm considering it. I may just stick w/ 255s and get a 15mm front wheel spacer to increase the track width.

[earlyapex aka jack ass]

haha.. now that I need to get new tires soon, I'm considering it. I may just stick w/ 255s and get a 15mm front wheel spacer to increase the track width.


15mm??

You're crazy.

[MarkSAE]

Yeah, 15mm seems kinda extreme, so I may just get 275s and run a 5mm spacer. nils's car is using 17mm spacers. I think quite a few Robispec cars are using pretty thick spacers up front also.

[redvolution]

Yeah, 15mm seems kinda extreme, so I may just get 275s and run a 5mm spacer. nils's car is using 17mm spacers. I think quite a few Robispec cars are using pretty thick spacers up front also.


I agree with Bryan - stick with 255s and buy a better seat/harness. I just picked up my Cobra Suzuka from Navid and I can't wait to install it!

If you want to fool with spacers try them on just the front axle so you can experiment with differential track width. I debated going this route back in May last year and decided against it after talking with Paul Gerrard and Mark Daddio.

The other disadvantage (minor) of a very wide track is that you will start to mess up the airflow over the side of the car.

[EVO GRIM]

Depends on your struts. You have ohlins Will? Mine cleared with out spacers but I went to a shorter spring. Put the eccentric bolt at the least camber setting and dial all of your camber with the top hats. H&R spacer and stud kit is top of the line but they are not hubcentric. I have a set of 10mm spacers that Navid had custom made by the rim company he uses, CCm or something.

[MarkSAE]

The camber plates on my Zeals suck. I have to use the more aggressive camber bolt setting AND almost max out the camber plates just to get -2.5 deg currently. So I'll most likely need to use a spacer to fit 275s.

I'll prolly just try out a set of 255/40/17 NT01s next.

[smack]

Depends on your struts. You have ohlins Will? Mine cleared with out spacers but I went to a shorter spring.

and also your spring rates...
i have shorter springs on the old ohlins and those were soft enough to get the perches up above the tire but the new setup has stiffer springs and
now the perches are lower and come down below the tire. also the higher the rate the thicker the coils. since the i.d. of the springs are the same
the o.d. gets bigger so you can add a mm. or 2 just from that.

[redvolution]

Depends on your struts. You have ohlins Will? Mine cleared with out spacers but I went to a shorter spring.

and also your spring rates...
i have shorter springs on the old ohlins and those were soft enough to get the perches up above the tire but the new setup has stiffer springs and
now the perches are lower and come down below the tire. also the higher the rate the thicker the coils. since the i.d. of the springs are the same
the o.d. gets bigger so you can add a mm. or 2 just from that.


Good point - I never thought about the spring coil diameter increasing as a function of rate.

Marshall - I do have the newer Ohlins R&Ts with the helper springs and Works camber plates.

Mark, I second just going with the 255/40-17 NT01s. I'm definitely going to get those or the R888s when my current set of RA1s is toast.

[hagakure]

I'm not convinced that the 20mm of tire actually makes that much difference. there are plenty of Evos going very fast in this world on 255's...ie all the Japanese Time attack cars.

[MarkSAE]

I think a lot of those cars run fat spacers in the front to increase the track width like the WORKS time attack car.

[smack]

one thing to take into consideration about those japanese time attack cars is their weight vs. tire width.
255's have plenty of stick when you're trying to change the direction of 2500 lbs. as opposed to 3300 lbs.
just a thought...

[joshesh]

is this the H&R spacer that will fit our cars: http://www.optionimports.com/10656715.html
?

[DoggDicker]

I believe that is the correct bore...

DD

[ddubdb3]

hey lookin for help..i have the fn01-rc 17x9 with im pretty sure a +35 offset...i just wanna flush out the wheels with the body get that "flush" look goin as im not much of a tracker. im thinkin 5mm spacers all the way around will be enough..maybe 10mm up front any input would be great. as im lookin to order the ichiba hubcentric spacers maybe today. thanks

[chrisw]

anything more than 5mm and you will want to replace the stock studs

[redvolution]

is this the H&R spacer that will fit our cars: http://www.optionimports.com/10656715.html
?


Yes - I have that one. It comes with longer studs.

[Matz]

Ok, so who has the best price on this wheel spacer kit? Josh, you said you had some for $20 -- are they hubcentric? I can't remember if you told me or not. :oops:

[joshesh]

^They are not hubcentric, but if you only running them for autox I dont think there should be any problems - and event track days it may be fine too, as i think Kyle said that the GST L car uses non-hubcentric spacers on its car without any issues.

The hubcentric ones are about 60 a pair, its up to you but I will still bring my 5mm spacers on the 27th for people to check out/try out if you want to.

[UCB]

Ok, so who has the best price on this wheel spacer kit? Josh, you said you had some for $20 -- are they hubcentric? I can't remember if you told me or not. :oops:


what size?

[ZK]

anything more than 5mm and you will want to replace the stock studs


I know in general that is the rule... but with the Evo, does it have enough thread on the stud to run a 5mm without extended studs?

[Matz]

Ok, so who has the best price on this wheel spacer kit? Josh, you said you had some for $20 -- are they hubcentric? I can't remember if you told me or not. :oops:


what size?


I was referring to the H&R 5mm spacers.

Josh, I don't know what spacers look like on the car, but if the holes are oversized, then you can have an imbalance condition which is obviously dangerous at high rotational speeds. They would be fine, though, as long as you're really careful putting them on, and I assume GST is very careful. But maybe the holes aren't sloppy on the spacers you guys have.

[chrisw]

anything more than 5mm and you will want to replace the stock studs


I know in general that is the rule... but with the Evo, does it have enough thread on the stud to run a 5mm without extended studs?


people have said yes, but personally I wouldn't recommend it.

[UCB]

hmm, the GST ones are the sloppy ones with oversized universal holes. I think the risks are pretty low, the wheel being centered is much more crucial than the spacer being centered IMO

As for spacers, I think it also depends on the wheel type. I seemingly have more threads of engagement with my OEM wheels vs the volks

[Matz]

As for spacers, I think it also depends on the wheel type. I seemingly have more threads of engagement with my OEM wheels vs the volks


Yep, definitely. From what I recall, the Kosei's look like they would give me more threads than my 5Zigens.

[joshesh]

Ok, so who has the best price on this wheel spacer kit? Josh, you said you had some for $20 -- are they hubcentric? I can't remember if you told me or not. :oops:


what size?

UCB, 5mm are the set that i have. I dont think a 6oz piece of aluminum being a little bit off center is going to have any negative effects at high rotational speeds, thats just my .02.

[Lucky13Evo]

^ plus one to that i have done numerous track days and drift events with all kinds of wheel spacers hubcentric and non hubcentric i never experienced any problems. I was always as cautious as i could be and made sure to center it as best as possible.

[Matz]

I dont think a 6oz piece of aluminum being a little bit off center is going to have any negative effects at high rotational speeds, thats just my .02.


Yeah, actually you guys are probably right. I should have tried the calculation before opening my mouth. :)

[DoggDicker]

That's why we like you Dave...:lol:...

DD

[UCB]

Ok, so who has the best price on this wheel spacer kit? Josh, you said you had some for $20 -- are they hubcentric? I can't remember if you told me or not. :oops:


what size?

UCB, 5mm are the set that i have. I dont think a 6oz piece of aluminum being a little bit off center is going to have any negative effects at high rotational speeds, thats just my .02.


I agree, but if you get into 10mm+ sizing, then I think it might start to matter ;). Not so much for rotational instability, but for potential uneven loading of the hub and wheel face.

[Lucky13Evo]

^the wheel still gets tightened into the same spot b/c of the design there really isnt much movement.

[DoggDicker]

Dave...don't worry, there will be a few of us to assist you, which makes it a lot easier to center the spacer...

DD

[UCB]

ROFL

One guy sitting back "a little to the right...ok...a little more..uh too much! and shift it down a bit...ok perfect!"

[SJCoruja]

Yeah, there's definitely a "how many auto-x-ers does it take to center a non-hubcentric spacer" joke in here somewhere, but I haven't quite finalized it.... hahahaha :P

[redvolution]

anything more than 5mm and you will want to replace the stock studs


I know in general that is the rule... but with the Evo, does it have enough thread on the stud to run a 5mm without extended studs?


According to H&R, you need 6.5 turns to be safe. With the 5mm H&R spacer AND THE EXTENDED STUDS THAT CAME WITH THE KIT, on Kosei K1TS 17x9 +35 I just barely got 6.5 turns.

In other words, with stock wheel studs you would definitely NOT have enough thread.

[joshesh]

^how much longer than stock are the studs that come with the H&R's?

[DoggDicker]

Yeah, there's definitely a "how many auto-x-ers does it take to center a non-hubcentric spacer" joke in here somewhere, but I haven't quite finalized it.... hahahaha :P


We can do itz...my guess is 5...1 to hold the spacer...1 to put the lugs on...1 to take pics...and 2 to supervise...just like CalTrans...except they are more proficient at supervising...

DD

[joshesh]

No, caltrans has at least 3 supervisor/standing around guys for every 1 guy doing something.

On a serious note, i just ordered a set of hub centric ones, so maybe i can do a comparison before i sell em?
So any takers on my 5mm aluminum simple spacers?

[DoggDicker]

Thanks...but I don't need no stinking spacers with a +12 offset...haha...

DD

[Matz]

Yeah, there's definitely a "how many auto-x-ers does it take to center a non-hubcentric spacer" joke in here somewhere, but I haven't quite finalized it.... hahahaha :P


We can do itz...my guess is 5...1 to hold the spacer...1 to put the lugs on...1 to take pics...and 2 to supervise...just like CalTrans...except they are more proficient at supervising...

DD


So that means Josh is still short one guy when he goes autoxing. :lol:

[joshesh]

^Nah, im never short - i think im going to start sticking a guy it the trunk too so maybe i'll go the opposite way that Dan went and just add weight like crazy. j/k

[ddubdb3]

What's the best way to replace wheel studs?? Heat up and hammer out or what?

[smack]

best way is to pull the hub and press the old ones out and the new ones in.

that being said, i've done them on the car by tapping the stocks out with a 5lb. mini sledgehammer and then pulling them back through with a spacer(sockets work well) and old lugnut. i haven't had any problems with them on the track so i have to figure they're fine.

[Lucky13Evo]

^ +1 thats how ive always done it too. Did you hear cal trains had a huge layoff... they found out that shovels can stand by them selves. lol

[ddubdb3]

best way is to pull the hub and press the old ones out and the new ones in.

that being said, i've done them on the car by tapping the stocks out with a 5lb. mini sledgehammer and then pulling them back through with a spacer(sockets work well) and old lugnut. i haven't had any problems with them on the track so i have to figure they're fine.


seems so brutal lol did u heat it up at all before u blastem em out? or is the heat not really needed

[UCB]

^ +1 thats how ive always done it too. Did you hear cal trains had a huge layoff... they found out that shovels can stand by them selves. lol


lol! Yeah I used to work for a lab funded by cal trains. Holy unproductive batman!

[Matz]

seems so brutal lol did u heat it up at all before u blastem em out? or is the heat not really needed


If you remove the hub, no, you don't need to heat it up before knocking the studs out with a hammer. The important part is to support the piece so that the bearing portion isn't loaded improperly from the impact. I put wood on both sides of the stud and then gave it a good whack.

I can't comment on doing it on the car, except that I would look for something that can press it out, so that the bearing doesn't get damaged from the impact.

[joshesh]

^Do you still want to try out the non-hubcentric 5mm spacers I have Dave? I will bring them anyway for people who might want to test out a slightly wider front track width.

[Lucky13Evo]

seems so brutal lol did u heat it up at all before u blastem em out? or is the heat not really needed


If you remove the hub, no, you don't need to heat it up before knocking the studs out with a hammer. The important part is to support the piece so that the bearing portion isn't loaded improperly from the impact. I put wood on both sides of the stud and then gave it a good whack.

I can't comment on doing it on the car, except that I would look for something that can press it out, so that the bearing doesn't get damaged from the impact.

ive always just wacked out the studs with a hammer. never seemed to have any problems. Maybe the evo hub is alittle weake or something?? is this why you are worried about it.

[Matz]

ive always just wacked out the studs with a hammer. never seemed to have any problems. Maybe the evo hub is alittle weake or something?? is this why you are worried about it.


Just in general, whacking anything connected to a bearing with a hammer is a bad idea if it's not supported properly. But of course the stuff I work on isn't expecting to be loaded that way, and maybe a whack isn't anything compared to what Mitsu designed the hub to take.

[smack]

best way is to pull the hub and press the old ones out and the new ones in.

that being said, i've done them on the car by tapping the stocks out with a 5lb. mini sledgehammer and then pulling them back through with a spacer(sockets work well) and old lugnut. i haven't had any problems with them on the track so i have to figure they're fine.


seems so brutal lol did u heat it up at all before u blastem em out? or is the heat not really needed


i didn't heat them up and they came out pretty easy.
i would think that for the amount of heat you would need to actually get the hub to expand you would do more damage to the bearing than just the one impact.
also i'm not convinced that heat would even "expand" the hole around the stud since i would think the hub would expand overall and the material around the stud could actually expand toward the studs. may even have better luck with cooling than with heat.

then again, i could be wrong... :lol:

[UCB]

No, metal in general expands outwards in all directions, so if there is already a hole there, the hole will enlarge

So if you ever want to press fit something,you heat the part, insert, then let it cool so it contracts around the mating part :)

[Lucky13Evo]

just hit with BFH shouldnt be any problems. leave a lug nut on the stud while you whack it to so not to damage the threads and the lug nut will act as a stop for the hammer so it doesnt slam into the hub.

[UCB]

BFH works too :lol:

Ive knocked out a plenty of SS locating pins with BFHs

[joshesh]

WTF is BFH?

[Matz]

WTF is BFH?


Big F**king Hammer

BTW, about the lug nut comment... yes, the lug nut will protect the threads, but it does not protect the bearing from the impact because it's still transmitted off-axis through the stud.

Of course, like I said, I have no idea if that amount of impact is actually enough to damage the bearing, so I err on the side of safety and just remove hub. :)

[nightwalker]

You can use a good dousing of PB blaster, let it soak, some tapping with a ball peen hammer around the hub and back of the studs, then stick an air hammer with a blunt tip on the studs and "prrrrrrrrr" "prrrrrrrrr" "prrrrrrrrr" "prrrrrrrrrr" "prrrrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRrrrr" all five studs on the ground.

the last stud is usually a bizznitch, that's why the extra "rrrrRRRRrrrr"

[Matz]

I could actually hear the air hammer! :) lol

[DoggDicker]

:lol:...

DD

[DruMMinStUd06]

Kics worked well for me...I had the 10mm when I had 18x9.5 NT03's.