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View Full Version : How to: one way to install PLX Devices M-300 wideband O2



Matz
01-26-2006, 12:04 AM
This is a multistep how-to, and is a work in progress:

Phase 1: disassembling dash, etc.
Phase 2: rewiring PLX M-300
Phase 3: installing sensor in downpipe

Phase 1: disassembling dash

Step 1: remove instrument panel surround by unscrewing the two screws in the top and gently pulling out the bottom.

(pic later)

Step 2: remove stereo surround. *Remove the 3 HVAC knobs, and then unscrew the two screws. *Gently pull the surround out.

(pic later)

Step 3: remove the center vent / clock panel by unscrewing the two screws you'll see after removing the stereo panel. *Use a putty knife to gently pry up around the edges -- it'll eventually pop out.

(pic later)

Step 4: unplug the clock harness and hazard light harness

(pic later)

Step 5: gently remove the clock assembly by prying out with a screwdriver

(pic later)

Now that you've got the clock out, let's start doing some hacking and soldering!

Phase 2: rewiring the PLX M-300

Parts you'll need:
- 1/4" drill bit
- 5/16" drill bit
- Zip tie
- 1/2" wide, 1/4" thick weatherstripping
- solder and soldering iron
- solder wick

Obviously, you'll start by separating the clock housing and tossing out the clock PCB. *:D

Step 1: open the M-300 and unsolder the display board from the main board. *Solder wick really helps here.
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step1.jpg

Step 2: add solder to the pads on the display board
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step2.jpg

Step 3: drill a 1/4" hole in the location circled in yellow, below. *Notice how I actually drilled a hole in the wrong spot first -- I had thought that the tabs were symmetrical, but then realized that I couldn't get the cover back on... *:?
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step3.jpg

Step 4: solder a bunch of wires to the display board. *Remember to write down the order of the colors! *If you don't have enough colors available, use a fat Sharpie to make black marks on the wires. *Solder the wires so that they go to the correct side of the board. *This is in the spirit of strain relief, or more like strain prevention. *Route the wires through the hole in the back cover.
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step4.jpg

Step 5: Push the display board in, and then pad around the edges of the board with some weatherstripping. *I did this for a couple of reasons: 1) help hold the board down, 2) make it harder to see the PCB.
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step5.jpg

Step 6: Reassemble the housing!
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step6.jpg

Step 7: Add expandable sleeving to wires to make it nice and clean
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step7.jpg

Step 8: Drill a 5/16" hole in the side of the M-300 housing
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step8.jpg

Step 9: Solder the wires to the main board. *PAY ATTENTION TO THE ORDER OF THE WIRES!!!
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step9.jpg

Step 10: Test the display before you close everything up!
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step10.jpg

Damn, this is gonna look gorgeous. :lol: *But does it bother anyone that there doesn't seem to be any open circuit detection? *I didn't even have the sensor plugged in yet. *:shock:

Step 11: Before closing up the M-300 housing, feed the wires through the 5/16" hole, and then put a zip tie around the expandable sleeving to keep the wires from getting pulled out. *I also recommend leaving some slack inside of the case! *Here's the finished product before reinstalling in the Evo
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step11.jpg

Phase 3: installing the O2 sensor

First of all, don't even think about putting the wideband O2 in your front O2 location, because the sensor will burn up. *If you are running a test pipe, then go ahead and use the rear location, and feed the simulated O2 output signal (narrowband) to ECU pin 75.

If you're like me, and don't run a test pipe, you'll have to have an O2 bung welded into your DP. *I am going to have this done sometime soon. *It turns out that Mitsubishi conveniently pre-drilled a hole directly above the joint between the DP and cat, so you can just feed the sensor wire through and into the cabin!

I will post pics once I have the bung welded in and get under the car to take pictures.

earlyapex
01-26-2006, 12:13 AM
Very nice!

byt
01-26-2006, 12:28 AM
Wow that looks awesome! Keep up the good work!

MarkSAE
01-26-2006, 01:09 AM
Wow, that looks nice and clean!

Matz
01-26-2006, 06:37 AM
Thanks, guys! I should actually have it in for the meet on Saturday. Tom is getting my ECU+ back to me tomorrow, so I'll have tomorrow evening to wire it up and hook up the wideband output. :) Too bad I can't put the actual sensor in, yet.

Dr. Evo
01-26-2006, 08:27 AM
Great job! That is beautiful work.

Evo442
01-26-2006, 08:58 AM
Very slick!

QwikEVO
07-19-2006, 09:37 AM
what gauge wire did you use?

Matz
07-19-2006, 10:03 AM
holy crap, back from the dead... :)

I don't remember, but I think it was 22 or 24. The connections are all low current, so pretty much anything will work.

FYI, when I get ambitious enough to pull the unit out, I'm going to add a polarized filter to the inside, so that I can add another filter on the outside @ 90 degrees to black out the display. Or, I may just wire a switch in to shut off the display module. At night (or early in the morning), that could be an attention getter for cops. Keep that in mind when doing this installation.

AreSTG
07-19-2006, 07:51 PM
so do all years have that hole drilled above where the pipes meet?

Matz
07-19-2006, 09:06 PM
so do all years have that hole drilled above where the pipes meet?


I assume that you mean the hole in the firewall? I believe so. There's a convenient hole in the firewall, and another under the center console for the wideband O2. earlyapex told me about the hole in the passenger fender as well -- pull the front pass. tire and remove the trim, and you'll see a huge hole for all kinds of good stuff.

QwikEVO
07-19-2006, 10:37 PM
holy crap, back from the dead... :)

I don't remember, but I think it was 22 or 24. The connections are all low current, so pretty much anything will work.

FYI, when I get ambitious enough to pull the unit out, I'm going to add a polarized filter to the inside, so that I can add another filter on the outside @ 90 degrees to black out the display. Or, I may just wire a switch in to shut off the display module. At night (or early in the morning), that could be an attention getter for cops. Keep that in mind when doing this installation.


Thanks, I just wanted to get the right sized wire.

The cops here in KS wouldn't even probably look up where the clock is...so I don't think I have to go through the troubles to hide it. Hell one time I got pulled over, and the cop asked me what my SAFC was, and I told him it was my mp3 player and he bought it...lol

Matz
07-19-2006, 11:00 PM
The cops here in KS wouldn't even probably look up where the clock is...so I don't think I have to go through the troubles to hide it. Hell one time I got pulled over, and the cop asked me what my SAFC was, and I told him it was my mp3 player and he bought it...lol


:lol: That's something I've never heard before. Hooray for clueless cops!

Just out of curiosity, how did you find this how-to?

QwikEVO
07-20-2006, 02:50 PM
The cops here in KS wouldn't even probably look up where the clock is...so I don't think I have to go through the troubles to hide it. Hell one time I got pulled over, and the cop asked me what my SAFC was, and I told him it was my mp3 player and he bought it...lol


:lol: That's something I've never heard before. Hooray for clueless cops!

Just out of curiosity, how did you find this how-to?


Lots of boredom...and I have a PLX M300.

I had actually planned on putting the whole unit where the clock assembly is, but behind the clock is a brace of some sort for the dash, so the unit sticks out too damn far. So I gave up with the idea...then I saw your idea. Unfortunately me and soldering irons don't get along very well, so I am having one of my friends do this mod....it's a great idea and a clean ass install...

AreSTG
07-20-2006, 05:28 PM
so do all years have that hole drilled above where the pipes meet?


I assume that you mean the hole in the firewall? I believe so. There's a convenient hole in the firewall, and another under the center console for the wideband O2. earlyapex told me about the hole in the passenger fender as well -- pull the front pass. tire and remove the trim, and you'll see a huge hole for all kinds of good stuff.


yea that was my question. thanks for the other info as well