Matz
01-26-2006, 12:04 AM
This is a multistep how-to, and is a work in progress:
Phase 1: disassembling dash, etc.
Phase 2: rewiring PLX M-300
Phase 3: installing sensor in downpipe
Phase 1: disassembling dash
Step 1: remove instrument panel surround by unscrewing the two screws in the top and gently pulling out the bottom.
(pic later)
Step 2: remove stereo surround. *Remove the 3 HVAC knobs, and then unscrew the two screws. *Gently pull the surround out.
(pic later)
Step 3: remove the center vent / clock panel by unscrewing the two screws you'll see after removing the stereo panel. *Use a putty knife to gently pry up around the edges -- it'll eventually pop out.
(pic later)
Step 4: unplug the clock harness and hazard light harness
(pic later)
Step 5: gently remove the clock assembly by prying out with a screwdriver
(pic later)
Now that you've got the clock out, let's start doing some hacking and soldering!
Phase 2: rewiring the PLX M-300
Parts you'll need:
- 1/4" drill bit
- 5/16" drill bit
- Zip tie
- 1/2" wide, 1/4" thick weatherstripping
- solder and soldering iron
- solder wick
Obviously, you'll start by separating the clock housing and tossing out the clock PCB. *:D
Step 1: open the M-300 and unsolder the display board from the main board. *Solder wick really helps here.
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step1.jpg
Step 2: add solder to the pads on the display board
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step2.jpg
Step 3: drill a 1/4" hole in the location circled in yellow, below. *Notice how I actually drilled a hole in the wrong spot first -- I had thought that the tabs were symmetrical, but then realized that I couldn't get the cover back on... *:?
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step3.jpg
Step 4: solder a bunch of wires to the display board. *Remember to write down the order of the colors! *If you don't have enough colors available, use a fat Sharpie to make black marks on the wires. *Solder the wires so that they go to the correct side of the board. *This is in the spirit of strain relief, or more like strain prevention. *Route the wires through the hole in the back cover.
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step4.jpg
Step 5: Push the display board in, and then pad around the edges of the board with some weatherstripping. *I did this for a couple of reasons: 1) help hold the board down, 2) make it harder to see the PCB.
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step5.jpg
Step 6: Reassemble the housing!
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step6.jpg
Step 7: Add expandable sleeving to wires to make it nice and clean
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step7.jpg
Step 8: Drill a 5/16" hole in the side of the M-300 housing
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step8.jpg
Step 9: Solder the wires to the main board. *PAY ATTENTION TO THE ORDER OF THE WIRES!!!
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step9.jpg
Step 10: Test the display before you close everything up!
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step10.jpg
Damn, this is gonna look gorgeous. :lol: *But does it bother anyone that there doesn't seem to be any open circuit detection? *I didn't even have the sensor plugged in yet. *:shock:
Step 11: Before closing up the M-300 housing, feed the wires through the 5/16" hole, and then put a zip tie around the expandable sleeving to keep the wires from getting pulled out. *I also recommend leaving some slack inside of the case! *Here's the finished product before reinstalling in the Evo
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step11.jpg
Phase 3: installing the O2 sensor
First of all, don't even think about putting the wideband O2 in your front O2 location, because the sensor will burn up. *If you are running a test pipe, then go ahead and use the rear location, and feed the simulated O2 output signal (narrowband) to ECU pin 75.
If you're like me, and don't run a test pipe, you'll have to have an O2 bung welded into your DP. *I am going to have this done sometime soon. *It turns out that Mitsubishi conveniently pre-drilled a hole directly above the joint between the DP and cat, so you can just feed the sensor wire through and into the cabin!
I will post pics once I have the bung welded in and get under the car to take pictures.
Phase 1: disassembling dash, etc.
Phase 2: rewiring PLX M-300
Phase 3: installing sensor in downpipe
Phase 1: disassembling dash
Step 1: remove instrument panel surround by unscrewing the two screws in the top and gently pulling out the bottom.
(pic later)
Step 2: remove stereo surround. *Remove the 3 HVAC knobs, and then unscrew the two screws. *Gently pull the surround out.
(pic later)
Step 3: remove the center vent / clock panel by unscrewing the two screws you'll see after removing the stereo panel. *Use a putty knife to gently pry up around the edges -- it'll eventually pop out.
(pic later)
Step 4: unplug the clock harness and hazard light harness
(pic later)
Step 5: gently remove the clock assembly by prying out with a screwdriver
(pic later)
Now that you've got the clock out, let's start doing some hacking and soldering!
Phase 2: rewiring the PLX M-300
Parts you'll need:
- 1/4" drill bit
- 5/16" drill bit
- Zip tie
- 1/2" wide, 1/4" thick weatherstripping
- solder and soldering iron
- solder wick
Obviously, you'll start by separating the clock housing and tossing out the clock PCB. *:D
Step 1: open the M-300 and unsolder the display board from the main board. *Solder wick really helps here.
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step1.jpg
Step 2: add solder to the pads on the display board
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step2.jpg
Step 3: drill a 1/4" hole in the location circled in yellow, below. *Notice how I actually drilled a hole in the wrong spot first -- I had thought that the tabs were symmetrical, but then realized that I couldn't get the cover back on... *:?
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step3.jpg
Step 4: solder a bunch of wires to the display board. *Remember to write down the order of the colors! *If you don't have enough colors available, use a fat Sharpie to make black marks on the wires. *Solder the wires so that they go to the correct side of the board. *This is in the spirit of strain relief, or more like strain prevention. *Route the wires through the hole in the back cover.
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step4.jpg
Step 5: Push the display board in, and then pad around the edges of the board with some weatherstripping. *I did this for a couple of reasons: 1) help hold the board down, 2) make it harder to see the PCB.
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step5.jpg
Step 6: Reassemble the housing!
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step6.jpg
Step 7: Add expandable sleeving to wires to make it nice and clean
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step7.jpg
Step 8: Drill a 5/16" hole in the side of the M-300 housing
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step8.jpg
Step 9: Solder the wires to the main board. *PAY ATTENTION TO THE ORDER OF THE WIRES!!!
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step9.jpg
Step 10: Test the display before you close everything up!
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step10.jpg
Damn, this is gonna look gorgeous. :lol: *But does it bother anyone that there doesn't seem to be any open circuit detection? *I didn't even have the sensor plugged in yet. *:shock:
Step 11: Before closing up the M-300 housing, feed the wires through the 5/16" hole, and then put a zip tie around the expandable sleeving to keep the wires from getting pulled out. *I also recommend leaving some slack inside of the case! *Here's the finished product before reinstalling in the Evo
http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallPLXM300/step11.jpg
Phase 3: installing the O2 sensor
First of all, don't even think about putting the wideband O2 in your front O2 location, because the sensor will burn up. *If you are running a test pipe, then go ahead and use the rear location, and feed the simulated O2 output signal (narrowband) to ECU pin 75.
If you're like me, and don't run a test pipe, you'll have to have an O2 bung welded into your DP. *I am going to have this done sometime soon. *It turns out that Mitsubishi conveniently pre-drilled a hole directly above the joint between the DP and cat, so you can just feed the sensor wire through and into the cabin!
I will post pics once I have the bung welded in and get under the car to take pictures.