EvolvedDSM
03-29-2004, 02:51 PM
First, allow me to explain why. I have yet to use my windshield washer sprayers (in fact, I've only used my wipers once just to make sure they work), so it's just sitting in the trunk full of fluid. Even if I filled my intercooler reservoir full of ice, it was completely melted by the end of an autocross run due to the heat being transferred from the engine. Then there's the whole weight bias in the front that I would like to shift towards the rear. So, I experimented.
I dug into the trunk and found the wires and tubing readily accessible without removing any of the trunk liner (save for the door to the WW reservoir). There are two tubes (one for the front, one for the rear). The smaller of the two is for the rear and I disconnected it as shown in the pic (forgive the collages, but I took too many and was trying to streamline). The larger tube for the front was left intact and is still fully functional. The rear-most motor is for the rear (soon to be the intercooler) sprayer.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/trunk1.jpg
I connected some tubing I had lying around (you'll need about 12 feet) and followed the front line (behind, down and under the rear seat, then along the door scuff plates to the front kick panel). Now it's time to get dirty.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/interior1.jpg
Remove the front bumper cover to expose the reservoir and the sprayers. There are four 12mm bolts holding the reservoir to the chassis along with the plug to the motor and a clip keeping the wiring out of the way--remove them all.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/reservoir1.jpg
With a little finesse, the reservoir drops down and you've got some new-found room. The crappy pic is taken from above w/o a flash, but with a light source shining in from the driver's side grill area after the bumper cover was reinstalled.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/reservoir2.jpg
Before you put the cover back on, you'll want to reroute the tubing. The blue is stock, the red is my modified pathway. Be careful not to kink them. I also removed the black plastic molding/air guide from the driver's side (more on this later).
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/bumper1.jpg
Now you need to connect the tubing from inside to the tubing on the bumper cover. If you remove the passenger side fender lining and look towards the door hinge and up, you'll see a large grommet with the front WW tubing (blue) coming out as well as a wiring harness. Look above the harness and you'll also see a black, hollow nipple (red arrow approximates location) sticking out--cut this off. Run tubing through this hole. Connect the inside with the outside and reassemble.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/fender1.jpg
Now for the electrical--don't worry it's easy. Before you put that passenger kick panel back on, you'll see a group of harnesses coming together. You're looking for a black wire with a white tracer (red arrow approximates location) on the plug up and closest to the door. You can undo the plug, release the tab (blue circle) and slide the plug out the back to give you more room. I cut this wire about 4 inches from the plug, then connected it to some 18AWG I had laying around, ran it through the firewall and routed it behind the engine over towards the airbox. Cut the red wire on the reservoir pump harness and connect it to the free end of the wire you just ran. Don't forget to tape up the two loose wires even though they are no longer used.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/wiring1.jpg
The numbers on the motors are all different, but the pump formerly know as the rear is doing well pushing the fluid through the extra tubing and out the sprayers. I may swap in the one from the intercooler reservoir later on.
OK, back to why I left that air guide out. During the process, I noticed that there will be a fairly direct pathway for cooler air to reach the engine bay--specifically, right next to the air box. While this may not benefit the stock cars, it should help out those with aftermarket conical intakes. You could easily fabricate a new guide to divert even more air upwards if so inclined. I just chose to open it up leaving off the plastic.
In the end you'll have fully functional I/C sprayers, fully functional front WW sprayers, less weight up front, cooler fluid reaching the I/C and cooler air going into your air filter. The only thing you lose function of is the rear WW sprayer--a fair trade.
I dug into the trunk and found the wires and tubing readily accessible without removing any of the trunk liner (save for the door to the WW reservoir). There are two tubes (one for the front, one for the rear). The smaller of the two is for the rear and I disconnected it as shown in the pic (forgive the collages, but I took too many and was trying to streamline). The larger tube for the front was left intact and is still fully functional. The rear-most motor is for the rear (soon to be the intercooler) sprayer.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/trunk1.jpg
I connected some tubing I had lying around (you'll need about 12 feet) and followed the front line (behind, down and under the rear seat, then along the door scuff plates to the front kick panel). Now it's time to get dirty.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/interior1.jpg
Remove the front bumper cover to expose the reservoir and the sprayers. There are four 12mm bolts holding the reservoir to the chassis along with the plug to the motor and a clip keeping the wiring out of the way--remove them all.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/reservoir1.jpg
With a little finesse, the reservoir drops down and you've got some new-found room. The crappy pic is taken from above w/o a flash, but with a light source shining in from the driver's side grill area after the bumper cover was reinstalled.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/reservoir2.jpg
Before you put the cover back on, you'll want to reroute the tubing. The blue is stock, the red is my modified pathway. Be careful not to kink them. I also removed the black plastic molding/air guide from the driver's side (more on this later).
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/bumper1.jpg
Now you need to connect the tubing from inside to the tubing on the bumper cover. If you remove the passenger side fender lining and look towards the door hinge and up, you'll see a large grommet with the front WW tubing (blue) coming out as well as a wiring harness. Look above the harness and you'll also see a black, hollow nipple (red arrow approximates location) sticking out--cut this off. Run tubing through this hole. Connect the inside with the outside and reassemble.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/fender1.jpg
Now for the electrical--don't worry it's easy. Before you put that passenger kick panel back on, you'll see a group of harnesses coming together. You're looking for a black wire with a white tracer (red arrow approximates location) on the plug up and closest to the door. You can undo the plug, release the tab (blue circle) and slide the plug out the back to give you more room. I cut this wire about 4 inches from the plug, then connected it to some 18AWG I had laying around, ran it through the firewall and routed it behind the engine over towards the airbox. Cut the red wire on the reservoir pump harness and connect it to the free end of the wire you just ran. Don't forget to tape up the two loose wires even though they are no longer used.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/wiring1.jpg
The numbers on the motors are all different, but the pump formerly know as the rear is doing well pushing the fluid through the extra tubing and out the sprayers. I may swap in the one from the intercooler reservoir later on.
OK, back to why I left that air guide out. During the process, I noticed that there will be a fairly direct pathway for cooler air to reach the engine bay--specifically, right next to the air box. While this may not benefit the stock cars, it should help out those with aftermarket conical intakes. You could easily fabricate a new guide to divert even more air upwards if so inclined. I just chose to open it up leaving off the plastic.
In the end you'll have fully functional I/C sprayers, fully functional front WW sprayers, less weight up front, cooler fluid reaching the I/C and cooler air going into your air filter. The only thing you lose function of is the rear WW sprayer--a fair trade.