inside diameter of springs for ohlin r&t?

[EVO GRIM]

I know Tam will know this one. I was trying to get the car lower, seems after the diet it sits at or above stock height :shock:

I was only able to lower the car about an other 1/2" in the back before bottoming out on the threads. Seems the 10" long springs spec'd by works were pre-loaded to about 8 1/2". Unless maybe they are 9" springs. They are swift springs at 10kg or 560 lbs.

I think if I go with 8" springs I still wont have enough adjustability. Maybe go with 7" with a helper spring? Are swift a quality brand? should I stay with them. What are the inside diameter of the springs?

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album126/DSC00872.sized.jpg

img is before my adjustments

[smack]

i thought they were 2.5" dia. springs. ii looks like you could run 8" springs with no problem
specially since you still want to come down from the position in the pic.
unless of course you want to go with firmer springs. then you will need more room than the extra 2" will give you probably.
i guess the the question is do you want to come down more than 2" from where the car sits
right now? also the front looks like there is plenty of adjustment to get away with just an 8"
spring. maybe look into running something shorter in the rear only. not nearly as much travel going on back there anyway.

i run 425/525 eibach(sp?) on mine but it feels a bit undersprung being still at full weight plus the rollbar.
even with these rates i'm out of dampening so if i want to go higher rates the shocks will need revalving. are yours still stock valving as well?

[EVO GRIM]

They are works spec rates 450 front 550 rear. BUt with all the weight I lost they feel alot stiffer. Valving might be a little off because of this. I dont think 8" will get me low enough.

[redvolution]

Smack was asking about the age of the Ohlins. Before November or so they came with valving that was only good for about 8kg (or lower) springs. After November they added helper springs and upped the valving to handle 12.5kg springs. Of course Works could have spec'd them differently...

So if you're still on the older-style valving then it's probably worth it to have them revalved.

And yes, Swift springs are good - supposedly better than Eibach.

[smack]

well depending on how much you lost you might have too much spring now. i don't think so but it's possible. have you talked to works about different length springs of what you already have?
another option is top mounting your camberplates. that should give you around double the thickness of the plates of extra travel at the same height. or another way to look at it is it will move the whole assembly up into the fenderwell that much.

just some thoughts.

[smack]

Smack was asking about the age of the Ohlins. Before November or so they came with valving that was only good for about 8kg (or lower) springs. After November they added helper springs and upped the valving to handle 12.5kg springs. Of course Works could have spec'd them differently...

So if you're still on the older-style valving then it's probably worth it to have them revalved.

And yes, Swift springs are good - supposedly better than Eibach.

good to know about the valving changes. i've had mine for a while now so they are definitely
the earlier valving. i'm thinking about going to something a bit more adjustable in the future so
i might just sell these or keep them around with the soft springs for a nice street setup.

[EVO GRIM]

+1 on good to know. How much would I gain in inches on the top hats?

[smack]

i'd have to look into it. there are a few choices out there. dms comes to mind. also one more obvious name that i just can't remember right now. man i'm old :lol:
i'll try to come up with it on monday.

[earlyapex]

i'd have to look into it. there are a few choices out there. dms comes to mind. also one more obvious name that i just can't remember right now. man i'm old :lol:
i'll try to come up with it on monday.

Ground control?

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=135/CA=7

[smack]

thanks bryan, that's the one.

[vtluu]

WORKS sells Swift springs I believe; they're very good but the Eibachs (sold by Ground Control) are fine as well, and cheaper.

I currently have 8" springs all around, with about 1/2" of "slack" in the front and almost 1" of slack in the rear (so I have to make sure the springs snap into place on the perches when lowering the car off a jack, or else it will correct itself later on with a very loud "bang"), to achieve about 1" lowering (I measure 22mm) all around.

I'll probably be going to much stiffer spring rates shortly, maybe 700 lb/in (12.5 kg/mm). I may need 7" springs then to get the ride height I want since heavier springs don't compress as much. Probably will get the Ohlins revalved as well; Jamie told me WORKS should be able to do it within the next month or so.

[chrisw]

WORKS sells Swift springs I believe; they're very good but the Eibachs (sold by Ground Control) are fine as well, and cheaper.

I currently have 8" springs all around, with about 1/2" of "slack" in the front and almost 1" of slack in the rear (so I have to make sure the springs snap into place on the perches when lowering the car off a jack, or else it will correct itself later on with a very loud "bang"), to achieve about 1" lowering (I measure 22mm) all around.

I'll probably be going to much stiffer spring rates shortly, maybe 700 lb/in (12.5 kg/mm). I may need 7" springs then to get the ride height I want since heavier springs don't compress as much. Probably will get the Ohlins revalved as well; Jamie told me WORKS should be able to do it within the next month or so.

+1 I run 8" springs as well.

I plan on going to a similar setup with a maximum of 800lbs or so, but I plann to keep the 8" springs.



i'd have to look into it. there are a few choices out there. dms comes to mind. also one more obvious name that i just can't remember right now. man i'm old :lol:
i'll try to come up with it on monday.

Ground control?

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=135/CA=7

Here is what the GC plates look like for the EVO. If you order these, make sure you tell them that you have the ohlin R&T.

http://www.grippybits.com/random/gcplates.jpg

[vtluu]

+1 I run 8" springs as well.

I plan on going to a similar setup with a maximum of 800lbs or so, but I plann to keep the 8" springs.
One would think that as long as I have unused "threads" left to move my spring perches lower, I would be okay using stiffer 8" springs. (Move the perches lower to compensate for the reduced spring compression bumping the ride height up.)

However I also know that if I lower the perches too much, rubbing against the tire in front will be an issue--same problem as Marshall is having due to running 10" springs. Then I would need to move the perches back up, so I would need shorter springs.

I guess I need to crawl under the car to see how low I can move the perches before tire rubbing becomes an issue--then I should be able to figure out if I need 7" or 8" springs.

[smack]

However I also know that if I lower the perches too much, rubbing against the tire in front will be an issue

I guess I need to crawl under the car to see how low I can move the perches before tire rubbing becomes an issue--then I should be able to figure out if I need 7" or 8" springs.

i have this issue with the 18"x9.5" w/18/35/275 ra-1's
no room to move the perches down unless i want to run a bit of spacer to make up the difference.
not a problem right now but yeah if i went with more spring then i would have a problem getting the car back down to the same height.

[Jamie@WORKS]

I'm not sure if Oliver contacted you, but I ran across a set of 10Kg 8" Swifts at the shop shortly after your call on Saturday. WORKS can also get Eibachs within a few days if you prefer lbs/in vs. Kg/mm ;)

[vtluu]

I looked at my suspension the other day and realized I was mistaken, I'm actually running 10" 450# Eibach springs in the front. The coils on the lower 2" show signs of rubbing--paint worn off. It's not bad; I checked the tire and although I can see a slightly dark band where it's just touched the spring once in a while, there doesn't appear to be any damage/wear.

Jamie, you mentioned a couple weeks ago that WORKS was getting the training and tools needed to re-valve the Ohlins; has this happened yet?

[EVO GRIM]

Oliver was going to call me back if he found them. Thanks Jamie.

[redvolution]

http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/albums/album438/DSC01513.jpg

Note the rate (T080). It means 80 Newtons/mm. To convert Newtons to kg, divide by the gravitational constant: 9.80665. So this 80 N/mm spring is not an 8kg/mm spring as I thought but rather a 8.16 kg/mm spring. To convert to lbs/in, multiply kg/mm by 56. That gives 457 lbs/in. To convert N/mm to lbs directly, multiply N/mm by 5.71.

So a 100 N/mm spring is actually 10.2 kg/mm or 571 lbs/in.

Fun stuff.

[EVO GRIM]

I've decided to wait untill I revalve the ohlins and just run what I got for now.
Thanks for all the ifo guys!

[Jamie@WORKS]

Jamie, you mentioned a couple weeks ago that WORKS was getting the training and tools needed to re-valve the Ohlins; has this happened yet?

Yes, WORKS is now an official authorized Ohlins service facility (I think the only one on the west coast). They are awaiting a few components to arrive from Sweden and we should be ready to service anything from the Road and Tracks up to the Group-N absorbers in a couple of weeks :)

[EVO GRIM]

Jamie, whats the stiffest spring the ohlins r&t can be valved for?

[Jamie@WORKS]

Jamie, whats the stiffest spring the ohlins r&t can be valved for?

Good question :) I'll check with the guys that went through training and find out.

[redvolution]

Jamie, whats the stiffest spring the ohlins r&t can be valved for?

When I called Ohlins USA mid January they told me the std rev2 dampers were valved for up to 750lb springs.