Autox Stock Set up

[Kamikaze]

This is the stock class qualification for suspension,
"Any shock absorber of the same type and mounting as original; no change to standard spring mountings is allowed; suspension geometry may not be altered; gas or hydraulic shocks are permitted"

I'm wanting to lower my car for better look and thinking to get a tein-s spring. Is that going to kick me out of stock class?
I don't quite get what qualify for the stock suspention set up. Standard Tein Coil over or most of aftermarket uses stock mounting position.
What can I do to suspension other than replacing anti-roll bar?

Also, I'm thinking to add rear strut tower bar. It could be a dealer option so it's ok, right? I wanna stay in AS. It's cheaper!!!

Most of the members here seem to run in SM.

[ZK]

This is the stock class qualification for suspension,
"Any shock absorber of the same type and mounting as original; no change to standard spring mountings is allowed; suspension geometry may not be altered; gas or hydraulic shocks are permitted"

I'm wanting to lower my car for better look and thinking to get a tein-s spring. Is that going to kick me out of stock class?
I don't quite get what qualify for the stock suspention set up. Standard Tein Coil over or most of aftermarket uses stock mounting position.
What can I do to suspension other than replacing anti-roll bar?

Also, I'm thinking to add rear strut tower bar. It could be a dealer option so it's ok, right? I wanna stay in AS. It's cheaper!!!

Most of the members here seem to run in SM.

Stock class does not allow you to change springs. Any kind of coilover is out of the question. It does not allow you to add any kind of bracing like a strut tower bar. It will allow you to change stock replacement shocks like you can use the MR Bilstein shocks or Koni adjustable dampening shocks.

The stock class is pretty much stock. There are very few things you can change to stay in stock class. You can run SM or if you have less mods ST-U.

[Kamikaze]

I guess I'll do ummm.... nothing.
It's okay to change the front sway bar, isn't it?

[Kamikaze]

Stock class does not allow you to change springs. Any kind of coilover is out of the question. It does not allow you to add any kind of bracing like a strut tower bar. It will allow you to change stock replacement shocks like you can use the MR Bilstein shocks or Koni adjustable dampening shocks.


I thought evo viii has a rear strut tower factory option.
why is koni adjustable ok?

[ZK]

I thought evo viii has a rear strut tower factory option.
why is koni adjustable ok?

Because it is a stock replacement strut. It uses all the same perches and uses the stock spring. It is not height adjustable if that is what you're thinking. It is only dampening. If it is a factory option, it is ok to have.

The rules are kinda funny in some ways because it does allow you to change to a cat-back exhaust system and you can use any tire you want on the stock sized rim.

If you are serious about running stock class, get a performance wheel alignment and invest in a set of stock sized wheels with sticky tires.

[L8eight]

Stock class rocks man, just do what ZK said alignment and RA-1's ;)

[vtluu]

I ran A Stock during my novice year. Assuming you're running with SFR-SCCA, your options for A Stock Novice are pretty simple:

- Front swaybar--what some people do is drill a new endlink hole on the stock swaybar, 1/2"-3/4" closer to the bar than the old one to make the front swaybar stiffer. Some people (e.g. chrisw) tried this and decided they didn't like it and went back to stock. I've run my swaybar that way ever since, and the car doesn't seem too pushy (but then again I've since upgraded the rear swaybar).
- Shocks--you can upgrade shocks but not springs. The upgraded shocks can be adjustable (up to 2-way I think); if the shocks have adjustable spring perches, they must be set to the stock height.
- Brake pads--stock ones are fine for autocross, though some people prefer other more aggressive street pads (e.g. Ferodo DS2500, etc.) which will change the braking feel a bit.
- Brake fluid--makes even less of a difference than pads for auto-x, but if you're flushing it, go with something better like ATE Super Blue.
- Tires--rims must be stock-sized, 17x8, but any tires that fit on the stock rims are allowed. Stock tires are great but $$$, if you're replacing them, I'd recommend the Hankook Z212s or Falken RT615s in 245/45-17 or 255/40-17. Novice class must run street tire compound, i.e. treadwear rating 140 or higher; AS open class can run any DOT-approved compound.
- Remove items not "permanently" fastened, e.g. spare tire & jack, floor mats, ashtrays (if you care enough).

There you have it. Stock class is a good place to start out because it limits how much you can spend on the car. The problem once you get into more "prepared" classes is that to make your car more competitive, you make it less streetable. Even in "streetable" classes like B Street Prepared and Street Modified, a nationally-competitive Evo is basically a "trailer queen"--modified beyond being comfortable, practical or even legal to drive on the street. That's why I've kept my daily driver Miata in C Stock class, even though it would be really tempting to upgrade the suspension or slap on a turbo.

[Kamikaze]

I've ordered set of RT-615 yesterday.

I think I wanna stick to AS and upgrade my skill before I upgrade my car. If I can handle stock perfectly, I will upgrade Evo :D

[ZK]

I've ordered set of RT-615 yesterday.

I think I wanna stick to AS and upgrade my skill before I upgrade my car. If I can handle stock perfectly, I will upgrade Evo :D

Definitely the way to go! A good driver can drive any car fast.

Just remember to have fun! For me, when I get too competitive it isn't fun anymore so I tend to emphasize having a good time rather than worry about points and times. :)

[Cameron@xperformance]

if you are looking for someone to set up your suspention, we (eXtreme performance) can do it for you. we have set up many autox cars including evos