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View Full Version : How to: install oil temp sender adapter



Matz
07-29-2006, 11:44 AM
This morning, I needed to change my oil, so I figured it was the best time to get that oil temp sender adapter installed. :)

Step 1:

Put your oil pan under the filter. Remove oil filter.

Step 2:

Using a 17mm socket, remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil.

Step 3:

Replace the crush washer. Replace the oil drain plug and torque to specs. For me, the spec is "tight". :lol:

Step 4:

Wipe some old oil on the O-ring of the new oil filter, and screw the new filter in, hand tight.

Step 5:

Get an 8mm hex adapter socket and use your ratchet to get the plug out of the oil filter block. You should use a ratchet that gives you enough leverage.

Step 6:

Screw in your 3/8" BSPT adapter from 42DD, me, or some other manufacturer. I couldn't find the torque specs for the plug, so I just made it about as tight as it was when I removed it. If you know the torque specs, please let me know. In this pic, I used the 42DD adapter instead of my own, because I realized at the last minute that I forgot to make the 1/8" BSPT thread on my adapter! Screw in the oil temp sender.

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp5.jpg

Step 7:

Follow my instructions on "How to Install GReddy gauges" (http://www.norcalevo.net/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=2&topic=7287.0) to get your gauges wired. Run the wire for the oil temp sender appropriately.

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp1.jpg

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp2.jpg

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp3.jpg

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp4.jpg

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp8.jpg

Here's a overview of the locations in one shot (minus the one on the dipstick):

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp9.jpg

If you have any constructive comments on proper wire routing, I would really appreciate it! I tried to avoid the pulleys and driveshaft, but it's tough. This is an old shot of where the wire runs. It's actually not as close to the driveshaft anymore:

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp7.jpg

Step 8:

Zip tie the wire to the oil return line (I think that's what this location is) so that the wire doesn't hang down.

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp6.jpg

Step 9:

Connect the gauge to the oil temp sender, and you're done!

MarkSAE
07-29-2006, 12:02 PM
Nice writeup Dave! I'll throw in my 2 cents about torqing pipe threads.

I wouldn't try torqing anything w/ pipe threads. Pipe threads are flared and have different fastening characteristics compared to a standard threaded bolt. The expanding diameter of the flared threads is what holds the plug/fitting in place and gives it a seal.

In order to properly torque a standard bolt, the bolt head has to bottom out against a surface. Once that happens, tightening the bolt more will stretch it and put tension on it. Fittings and plugs should never bottom out. If they do, something is wrong and there won't be a seal.

I've seen torque specs for plugs before, tried torqing them to those specs but was never successful. The best thing to do is to just tighten them til they're snug and then another 1/8 - 1/4 turn.

Matz
07-29-2006, 01:04 PM
That's a really great point, Mark, thanks! So I guess my "tight" spec should be what you said -- snug, then 1/4 turn. I'm just going to leave them the way they are, then start up the car and check for leaks. Of course, you should always do that after changing your oil anyway. :)

Any tips on the wire routing? I've run the wire along the top of the firewall, zip tying to the frame where possible. I then zip tied to what I think is a pipe for the HVAC system, and then across to the dipstick, behind the alternator. From there, I'm not sure what to do to avoid the driveshaft. I'm going to take some picture now and hopefully can upload them tonight when I get home.

Matz
07-29-2006, 02:46 PM
Mods, can you please sticky this thread? Thank you!

KareBearPowa
07-29-2006, 03:03 PM
I would not zip tie the electrical line to any parts that will got hot. Two I see in the photos are the metal oil line coming from the oil cooler, oil dipstick line and also the coolant line going by the intake manifold.

I routed mine up in the fender well just like stock and into the cabin under the glovebox. That way you don't have to mess with any of the areas you are showing in the photos.

Matz
07-29-2006, 03:50 PM
I would not zip tie the electrical line to any parts that will got hot. Two I see in the photos are the metal oil line coming from the oil cooler, oil dipstick line and also the coolant line going by the intake manifold.

I routed mine up in the fender well just like stock and into the cabin under the glovebox. That way you don't have to mess with any of the areas you are showing in the photos.


Yeah, that's what I was worried about... thanks for the tip. But what should I do? You said you ran it through the fender, but that doesn't address how you got it from there to your oil pan. For me, that's the tough part.

Is this one that you're concerned about? I thought that it would be ok since it's a rubber hose... unless you're referring to the heat coming off of the intake manifold.

http://evo8.initialdproject.com/HowToInstallOilTempSenderAdapter/oiltemp8.jpg

I'm not sure what to do about the dipstick part, since I couldn't zip tie anywhere else behind the alternator (my hands are small, but not small enough!), and I had to use that general area as an anchoring point to keep it away from the driveshaft. I also didn't think it was that big of a deal, since it didn't seem hot. After driving my car around to warm it up, I felt the dipstick and it wasn't hot, but I burned my arm on the screw holding on the cam gear cover. :shock:

Also, definitely not a great idea to tie to the oil line... maybe I should just cut it and let it hang? I also couldn't find any other good places to use as anchors to guide in front of the driveshaft. :(

Thanks again!

KareBearPowa
07-29-2006, 04:29 PM
The line goes from the probe in the oil filter housing, along the undertray, up close to the oil cooler and over the fender well cover and into the cabin. Zip tied along the way. It doesn't get close to any moving parts what so ever. I'd take photos but my car isn't at home currently. :(

I believe that coolant line gets very hot, I know the one on the other side certinaly does.

Matz
07-29-2006, 05:39 PM
Ok, thanks. I'll drive it home and see how hot it gets. I'll plan on rerouting the lines to the front of the car and across the undertray.

Matz
12-20-2006, 12:11 AM
mods: please sticky this thread

everyone, I've used the above setup and haven't had any issues with the sender wires melting. So hopefully it's okay. :) It's lasted through a few autocrosses, at least.