Do I need special tools to take apart the transfer case?

[LEVIII]

Ive heard a nasty nasty rumor that I need spcial mitsu tools to take apart and put back together my t case. Anyone know if there is any truth to this?

[Hot8Evo]

Yah, A SHOP....

[KareBearPowa]

It's sealed by getrag, are you trying to swap cases?

[MarkSAE]

What are you trying to do? Change the front diff?

I'm not sure about the t-cases w/ ACD, but for the non-ACD t-cases, you just undo 7 bolts to open the case. You should be able to pull the pumpkin out after that.

You do need a slider hammer w/ a stud on it to pull the stub shafts out of the diff first.

[AreSTG]

Ive heard a nasty nasty rumor that I need spcial mitsu tools to take apart and put back together my t case. Anyone know if there is any truth to this?


my wifes jetta needs a special tool to change the oil, and VW won't sell it

[EVO GRIM]

I just took my tcase out the other day its kindof a bitch. Pm me or get me on aim for specifics. BUt you shouldn't need any special tools aside from the slide hammer. I have one if you need to borrow it. Props to Mark for his write up on evom.

[vtluu]

Just checked the FSM, you need some special tools (not Mitsu-specific) to take apart a couple of the suspension bits you need to remove in order to access the TC (according to the manual anyway), but other than that I don't think so. The manual doesn't really say anything about how to take apart the TC itself. I think I recall a web page with photos about that, in reference to installing a Quaife LSD. Maybe on RRE's page? I don't remember exactly... Anyway I don't remember it requiring anything other than the usual tools.

[MarkSAE]

Just checked the FSM, you need some special tools (not Mitsu-specific) to take apart a couple of the suspension bits you need to remove in order to access the TC (according to the manual anyway), but other than that I don't think so. The manual doesn't really say anything about how to take apart the TC itself. I think I recall a web page with photos about that, in reference to installing a Quaife LSD. Maybe on RRE's page? I don't remember exactly... Anyway I don't remember it requiring anything other than the usual tools.


You can get away w/o using the tools suggested in the FSM. I actually prefer not to use the ball-splitter cuz there's always a chance the ball-joint can get damaged when you pop them loose w/ that tool. And for the tool that prevents the hub from spinning while you crack the axle nut loose, just have someone step on the brakes. That's the same thing.

[LEVIII]

I already have it out. I actually need to take everything out of it and put it back together, with a new case. I done busted it right in half though. I found some blowed up ones on evom for a couple hundred but then heard I need special tools. Thanks for any help

http://static.flickr.com/68/217138131_a5c9d065e3.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/65/217138128_3ce27e753b.jpg

[Matz]

And for the tool that prevents the hub from spinning while you crack the axle nut loose, just have someone step on the brakes. That's the same thing.


Use Marshall's two socket wrench trick for that! I forgot what thread, but I think it was Marcel that posted a pic before.

[Eclipse]

And for the tool that prevents the hub from spinning while you crack the axle nut loose, just have someone step on the brakes. That's the same thing.


Use Marshall's two socket wrench trick for that! I forgot what thread, but I think it was Marcel that posted a pic before.


You can also put a crowbar against the studs and one end on the ground, jamming movement in whichever direction you need.

[MarkSAE]

You can also put a crowbar against the studs and one end on the ground, jamming movement in whichever direction you need.


There are obviously various ways you can go about getting that nut off. *I vote for the least destructive method if possible.. hehe.. You also risk the chance of bending your wheel studs if you jam a crow bar in there.

[MarkSAE]

I already have it out. I actually need to take everything out of it and put it back together, with a new case. I done busted it right in half though. I found some blowed up ones on evom for a couple hundred but then heard I need special tools. Thanks for any help

http://static.flickr.com/68/217138131_a5c9d065e3.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/65/217138128_3ce27e753b.jpg


Ahh okay.. I see what you're trying to do.* The tricky part of swapping the guts of your t-case over to a different housing is to shim the pinion gear correctly.* There's a high possibility it will need to be shimmed differently.* If it's shimmed wrong, you're gonna cook the gears.* You may also need to re-shim the thrust bearings as well.* Since the FSM does not tell you how to take apart the t-case or give the shimming specs, I would recommend sending it to TRE or John Shepherd and have them assemble your frankenstein t-case.

[KareBearPowa]

Be prepared to wait eleventy billion years if you send it to TRE.

[Matz]

Ahh okay.. I see what you're trying to do. The tricky part of swapping the guts of your t-case over to a different housing is to shim the pinion gear correctly. There's a high possibility it will need to be shimmed differently. If it's shimmed wrong, you're gonna cook the gears. You may also need to re-shim the thrust bearings as well. Since the FSM does not tell you how to take apart the t-case or give the shimming specs, I would recommend sending it to TRE or John Shepherd and have them assemble your frankenstein t-case.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't one way to do this to get slightly oversized bearings, and then have the areas of the tcase reamed to match?

[Matz]

Be prepared to wait eleventy (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=eleventy) billion years if you send it to TRE.


I think Bryan is exaggerating here. You'll just have to wait 6 days for it to get there, then 3 days for them realize that they have a package, then another 3 days to tell you that they got it, then another couple for them to take photos of what you already know is broken, then...

[LEVIII]

SO you think they could have it done in say ten billion years?


AH SHIT, this is not going the way I had hoped it might when I snapped the damn thing.

Think I could take it to a welder and have it welded back together?

Would the shims stay the same size? would I need new seals? Could it be welded already together or the seals will melt?

Im F'ing screwed huh...................Anyone wanna buy an evo? Brand new clutch with 0 miles, LOL.

[MarkSAE]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't one way to do this to get slightly oversized bearings, and then have the areas of the tcase reamed to match?


The bearings used in the t-case are tapered roller bearings. They are shimmed in the axial direction to get the correct amount of endplay. The shims look like really big thin washers and are placed behind the bearing race. I supposed they can make a bunch of different thickness races, but making a bunch of different sized shims is a much more cost effective solution. ;)

[MarkSAE]

Think I could take it to a welder and have it welded back together?

Would the shims stay the same size? would I need new seals? Could it be welded already together or the seals will melt?

Im F'ing screwed huh...................Anyone wanna buy an evo? Brand new clutch with 0 miles, LOL.


Anytime you weld anything, you should expect things to get tweaked once it cools down. The t-case housing is made from cast aluminum, which is porous, really tricky to weld, and even more prone to tweaking from the heat.

If I were you, I'd do it once and get it right. It may take longer up front, but will definitely give you peace of mind in the long run. Just send it out and get it assembled properly.

[wzcx]

Matz, I think that the differences are in length, not diameter- the bearing will need a different shim behind it, not around it.

[KareBearPowa]

So how did you snap that thing anyway?

[Matz]

Matz, I think that the differences are in length, not diameter- the bearing will need a different shim behind it, not around it.


Thanks, yeah, experience led to that question. Your post and Mark's cleared it up for me. :thumbsup:

[wzcx]

Thanks, yeah, experience led to that question. Your post and Mark's cleared it up for me. :thumbsup:
Pile-on!

[EVO GRIM]

On shimming the ring/pinion I remember a trick from my old 4x4 days. YOu put grease on the ring gear and rotate it around and it makes a mark on the pinion gear, but I dont remember what the marks are supposed to look like when its properly shummed. Damm my memory is just a memory.

[LEVIII]

So how did you snap that thing anyway?


I was using a gear wrench to bolt it back to the tranny and I thought the dowel was lined up, apperently it wasnt.