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Thread: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

  1. #11

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    I'm curious is the system supposed to hold 25 psi with the t-body closed?
    It seems to me it would not.(correct me if I'm wrong here)
    In normal operation when you are boosting 21 psi the t-body blade is open.
    as soon as you let off the T-body blade closes recirc valve opens no pressure
    at the t-body blade.
    But in doing the boost leak test one pressurises the system to 21+psi expecting
    the t-body to hold pressure while checking the couplers w/soapy water solution.
    It seems like this TEST would damage the seals at the shaft byÂ* prolonging
    the amount of time the system is pressurized.
    Does the evo t-body even seal airtight? I know a lot of T-bodys that don't.
    I also need to do a BL test but I want to test piping and couplers only so I am
    fabbing up a plug to plug off the t-body elbow thus not thrashing my poor t-body
    seals..
    Simon this is what I was telling you about I will make an Extra T-body elbow plug
    for your BL test kit.
    (your t-body seals will love you for this..) 8)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    6,896

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Not sure if this was posted but here is a how-to change the seals:

    http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=220264

  3. #13

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Great info guys!

    Emperor

    SpeedElement
    Gst
    OniSF
    DetailAddict

  4. #14

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Anyone know if anyone besides works sells upgraded seals?
    Eat me

  5. #15

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals


  6. #16

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    good looking out homie
    Eat me

  7. #17

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    IMHO the MachV ones are more or less junk. THey really aren't built to handle much boost, as they were designed for DSM's. Trust me, WORKS actually put some time into their seals for once (no offense, but lots of the other parts/flashes fail etc.). I had a LONG talk with a few of the employees a while back to get something like this in motion. I would spend the extra $8 bucks or so and get the WORKS seals.

    Just make sure when you are replacing the stock ones, you dont score your throttle body and press the new ones in FULLY...

    Quote Originally Posted by BOOSTX2
    I'm curious is the system supposed to hold 25 psi with the t-body closed?
    It seems to me it would not.(correct me if I'm wrong here)
    In normal operation when you are boosting 21 psi the t-body blade is open.
    as soon as you let off the T-body blade closes recirc valve opens no pressure
    at the t-body blade.
    But in doing the boost leak test one pressurises the system to 21+psi expecting
    the t-body to hold pressure while checking the couplers w/soapy water solution.
    It seems like this TEST would damage the seals at the shaft by prolonging
    the amount of time the system is pressurized.
    Does the evo t-body even seal airtight? I know a lot of T-bodys that don't.
    I also need to do a BL test but I want to test piping and couplers only so I am
    fabbing up a plug to plug off the t-body elbow thus not thrashing my poor t-body
    seals..
    Simon this is what I was telling you about I will make an Extra T-body elbow plug
    for your BL test kit.
    (your t-body seals will love you for this..) 8)
    Well when you are boosting 21 psi lets say, i.e. your bosot gauge reads 21 psi, you *should* be measuring that pressure at the manifold, and no matter if the butterfly valve is opened or closed, it is still seeing 21 psi whether you are driving the car or are leak testing. The whole system is pressurized when you are boosting...

  8. #18

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    considering that works isnt the one actually manufacturing their seals they sell, what they did was put some time into sourcing someone who make quality seals.
    Eat me

  9. #19

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    ^ yup, fine with me. As long as they work i don't mind who makes em

  10. #20

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Quote Originally Posted by XVeloX
    IMHO the MachV ones are more or less junk. THey really aren't built to handle much boost, as they were designed for DSM's. Trust me, WORKS actually put some time into their seals for once (no offense, but lots of the other parts/flashes fail etc.). I had a LONG talk with a few of the employees a while back to get something like this in motion. I would spend the extra $8 bucks or so and get the WORKS seals.

    Just make sure when you are replacing the stock ones, you dont score your throttle body and press the new ones in FULLY...

    Quote Originally Posted by BOOSTX2
    I'm curious is the system supposed to hold 25 psi with the t-body closed?
    It seems to me it would not.(correct me if I'm wrong here)
    In normal operation when you are boosting 21 psi the t-body blade is open.
    as soon as you let off the T-body blade closes recirc valve opens no pressure
    at the t-body blade.
    But in doing the boost leak test one pressurises the system to 21+psi expecting
    the t-body to hold pressure while checking the couplers w/soapy water solution.
    It seems like this TEST would damage the seals at the shaft by prolonging
    the amount of time the system is pressurized.
    Does the evo t-body even seal airtight? I know a lot of T-bodys that don't.
    I also need to do a BL test but I want to test piping and couplers only so I am
    fabbing up a plug to plug off the t-body elbow thus not thrashing my poor t-body
    seals..
    Simon this is what I was telling you about I will make an Extra T-body elbow plug
    for your BL test kit.
    (your t-body seals will love you for this..) 8)
    Well when you are boosting 21 psi lets say, i.e. your bosot gauge reads 21 psi, you *should* be measuring that pressure at the manifold, and no matter if the butterfly valve is opened or closed, it is still seeing 21 psi whether you are driving the car or are leak testing. The whole system is pressurized when you are boosting...
    I see what your saying here so when you do the test and pressurize the system
    you are actually pressurizing the system from turbo inlet to the intake valve?
    or past if valve is open?
    Sorry for dumb Question
    I thought the pressure would escape through the motor.
    Do you pressurize and disconnect air supply? or do you regulate to desired PSI
    and keep the air supply connected?
    Thanks for the info BTW..

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