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Thread: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

  1. #1

    Default Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    After sorting the 5500 rpm "whoosh" screwups (flapping cold air scoop), re-tuning and doing a few runs, im still only doing 250 est WHP (DLL graphing, yeah not perfect, but im pretty anal on the input variables). Im down to zero knock at all loads/RPMS, but something is still up.

    Time to put the new FG boost leak tester to good use Stripped out the intake components, fitted the leak tester and a (hand!!) pump. Got cracking and one good 'right arm workout 'later (no funny comments lads :P ), im up at 12 PSI. Well, I can hear the air pissing out. Took me a moment tnarrow it down - and yep, it is the throttle body seals that seem to be plaguing a few of us lately. No wonder my car is not going over 250!!!(The stock seals are rated to 7psi from factory (according to WORKS website) before they start to leak. According to my leak tester, my throttle body seals start pissing air (throttle closed) at 1 PSI. Its not too fast, but if I open the throttle, the pressure drops REAL fast. Like a BIG leak. Ah well, cant win em all

    Im going to get the seals fixed and re-run the test. From what I can hear so far, thats my only leak to just under 13 PSI. Who knows whats going to show up when I get the pressure up to the top.


    heres what I did, in case anyone else who wants to do this test, does not know:

    - Unbolt the three bolds holding in the air box.
    - Unclip the wiring to the MAF (the wire to the left, kinda underneath the air filter box, above intake piping)
    - Unclip the jubilee clip holding the air box to the intake piping (left of airbox)
    - Gently lift airbox up and wiggle with a bit of pressure to remove from intake piping. Set to one side, trying not to get any crap inside it from the ground
    - undo two jubilee clips holding rubber pipe between right side LICP (intercooler exit pipe) and UICP. Remove hose (not a strictly necassary step, but makes it easier for you)
    - unclip jubilee clip connecting BOV to intake piping. Do not remove BOV from UCIP !!! Remove BOV from intake piping.
    - Unclip jubilee clip on tubo to intake piping. Wiggle loose from turbo and then remove the vacuum line from the far side of intake piping and remove the small BCS pipe from underside of intake piping.
    - Remove intake piping
    - connect boost leak tester to turbo inlet and screw down with jubilee clip
    - Reconnect rubber hose between exit LICP and UICP and clamp down with jubilee clips
    - Connect compressed air source to boost leak tester. I used an 80PSI rated hand pump. If you dont want to grow biceps like Arnie, then I would recommend a compressor for this.
    - Begin pumping till you hit 10PSI on the gauge. Stop pumping, see if the boost drops and listen for hisses. Find out where any hisses are and try to rectify (remember to return the pressure system to relative atmosphere before un-clipping anything!)
    - If no hisses, then keep pumping to 15 PSI. Rinse and repeat. No hisses? Go to 24 PSI.
    - If you reach 24 PSI and it holds, congrats, your system is perfect! If not, find your leaks n fix em.

    When putting it all back together, dont forget to put the airbox back in with the lid on. On more than one occasion, I have put the airbox back in with no lid on, only to find I gotta take it all out again as the clips (that hold the lid on) are stuck pointing straight down.

    hope this helps a few of you.
    Bye Bye NCe

  2. #2

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    You can come by and use out boost leak tester unless you like the hand work-out, but I'm sure you can find better means to work those muscles.. (ahahah sorry I had to)

    Jerry
    Full Function<br />1260 Pacific St<br />Union City, CA. 94587 <br />510-475-5855 tel.<br />510-475-5840 fax.<br />www.fftec.com<br />Authorized dealer for AEM, HKS, Greddy, Tanabe, Advan, Volk, Project MU, Innovate, Precision Turbo, and more...<br /><br /> EVO cam and cam gear specials<br /><br />The inconvenience of poor quality lingers long after the thrill of a good bargain...

  3. #3

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    LOL Jerry! And tnx for the offer!
    Bye Bye NCe

  4. #4

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    "60% of the time, it works every time" - Brian Fantana

  5. #5

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Or here... im told these fit

    http://machv.com/throtbodseal.html
    Bye Bye NCe

  6. #6

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Quote Originally Posted by Limeyboy
    Or here... im told these fit

    http://machv.com/throtbodseal.html
    They must fit since Mach V sells those on their evo page... hehe..

    http://www.machevo.com/thbose.html

    I've replaced the TB shaft seals on my DSMs using the Mach V seals. They work good! And you don't need any kind of press to install them either.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Quote Originally Posted by Limeyboy
    Or here... im told these fit

    http://machv.com/throtbodseal.html
    I have these installed, but I know (from the individual who machines the throttle bodies for Works) that the works seals are stronger and rated for a higher PSI than the set that MachV sells.
    Code:
    sub<br />b{[@b=(abs||No,bottle.”s”x!!++$_,of,beer),on,the,wall]}print<br />“@{+b},\n@b,\nTake one down, pass it around,\n@{+b}.\n”<br />for-pop||-99..-1

  8. #8

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Thanks Chrisw, I figured the same myself and tried to order from Works.. Works site was actually not letting me check out ( some internal server error) so I called Olly and got them that way. Should be with me tomorrow.
    Bye Bye NCe

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    7,824

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Do you guys recommend changing those seals, even though one may not actually have a leak yet?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Boost leak test - bloody throttle seals

    Stock is rated to 7psi, we regularly go over that. Its a weak component in the chain which will for sure one day fail. Preventative maintenance is always better than 'fix it when it breaks' maintenance.
    Bye Bye NCe

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