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Thread: INSTALL: VEI systems Triple-Gauge

  1. #1

    Default INSTALL: VEI systems Triple-Gauge

    http://www.teamcrd.com/projects/evotriple.html


    How-To: Mitsubishi Evolution Triple-Gauge Installation







    Stage 0: Planning
    • Car = Mitsubishi Evolution IX
    • Gauges = VEI Systems Vacuum-Boost, Wideband Air-Fuel Ratio, and Oil Pressure.
    • Parts required:
    o VEI Vacuum-boost monitor with integrated sensor, V1-VBM-MR
    o Universal vacuum tee, 7/64" vacuum tubing (auto parts store)
    o VEI Air-fuel ratio display, V1-AFR-MR
    o PLX wideband controller, no display (M-250)
    o VEI oil pressure monitor, V1-OPM-MR
    o VEI oil pressure sender, SEN-P100I
    o VEI oil pressure extension kit
    o Wires, terminals, etc.
    • Gauge mount = TeamCRD Evo triple-gauge plate
    • Pre-setup: Radio relocated to lower center dash (Mitsubishi kit), so top DIN location is free/open.
    • We will install headlight-dimming option provided on the gauges. We will also use a connector set for easy removal of the gauge panel if necessary. We used Amp connectors/pins, but you can use the Molex-type connectors available from Radio Shack.

    Stage 1: Locate the sensor installation points




    The vehicle in which we'll be installing the gauges.



    The oil-pressure sender will be connected to this plug.



    This hose at the back of the engine is where we'll get the manifold pressure signal.



    This is where we'll put the oxygen sensor ... near the end of the down pipe, on the top side (tip facing downwards), before the catalytic converter.



    This is the cable (supplied with the PLX controller) that connects the oxygen sensor to the controller. You need to ensure your routing point is large enough for this connector to pass thru.



    Another important thing is to locate the access point between the engine bay and the cockpit. We found this grommet on the passenger-side of the vehicle, which provided a nice access point.




    Stage 2: Mounting the gauges


    Relocate the radio to the lower center console, using the instructions provided in the relocation kit.



    Remove the A/C knobs, by just pulling hard. The two screws behind the large knobs need to be removed next. Then grab the bottom of the front cover plate and carefully pull forward. Finally, pull at the top to detach the upper clips.



    Front cover removed.



    The gauge installation kit is really just this painted metal plate. Trial-fit the gauges first.



    Trial-fit the gauge mounting plate into the front cover panel.



    The metal plate does not come with any installation fasteners, nor any way to use any. The rear is flanged so that the plate cannot fall thru the front, and the flange on the gauges will hold the plate from falling thru the back. There is a bit of slop using this method which can be picked up by stuffing some foam near the corners at the back of the plate.



    With the metal plate in the front panel cover, position the gauges to your preference and wire the gauges together. Start by tying all 3 black (ground) wires together. Then do the same for the 3 red (switched +12V) wires, and finally for the 3 green wires. Other wires are for sensor signals.



    Add extension wires, solder and seal with heat-shrink tubing. The extension wires help if the front panel needs to be removed later. You can use a regular hair-dryer for shrinking the tubing.



    Crimp on the appropriate pins for the connector you're using. Pay attention to the pin and connector gender.



    Secure the gauges with the supplied clamps and thumb-nuts. Use a bit of removeable thread-locker or nail polish to prevent the thumb nuts from backing out due to vibration. The pins get pushed into the connector housing and locks in place. Make sure you note which pins/wires are for which function. Use nylon wire ties hold everything neatly. Here is the completed section for the gauges.



    Temporarily trial-fit the front cover to ensure that all is okay.





    Stage 3: Installing and connecting senders



    Through the grommet, run the oxygen sensor cable, a length of 7/64" vaccuum tubing and a length of 16-gauge wire for the oil-pressure signal. If you plan to hook up the headlight dimmer, also route a wire for the headlights signal.



    Pull the wires thru the passenger-side footwell in the cockpit, ensuring that the vacuum hose does not get kinked.



    This is the VEI oil pressure sender, extension kit and P-clamp. The area around the hex plug in the oil-filter block was pretty crowded, so we used the braided extension kit from VEI to relocate the oil-pressure sender. The extension kit also includes one swivel joint to allow the connections to be attached/tightened after the sender is mounted. We added a 1/4" male NPT to 1/8" female NPT adapter at the end to match the threads in the oil-filter block.



    We found this harness grommet nearby which will be a good point for mounting the oil-pressure sender.



    Mount the oil pressure sender and route the braided hose. Use teflon tape on all threaded connections, but be careful as the tape needs to be wrapped on the back half of the threads only. Otherwise pieces of tape could break off into the oil stream and cause catastrophic clogs! Tighten everything except the swivel fitting.



    Thread the hose/fittings into the oil filter block. Tighten the swivel fitting last.



    Use wire-ties to attach the braided hose to some fixed object or rigid hose, so that it does not rub on some moveable suspension or engine component.



    Oil-pressure wire routed down against the firewall.



    Mark the position of the oxygen sensor, based on clearance. Then remove the bolts holding the front of the down pipe.



    Remove the rear down-pipe bolts to separate the cat. Also remove the cross bars to provide clearance for the pipe to be removed.



    Weld-on the oxygen sensor bung. You can take this to a muffler shop if you don't have a welder. Note the manufacturer's instructions on positioning the sensor as this is very important. You may have noticed that the pipe is different here, as we were changing the pipe on this car at the same time.



    Install the oxygen sensor using a special oxygen-sensor socket, which has a slot cut on one side for the pigtail wire.



    Install the oxygen sensor using anti-sieze compound. Our sensor had some pre-pasted on the threads.



    Re-install the downpipe.



    Verify oxygen sensor clearance.



    Hook up the vacuum tee, routing it carefully to ensure that there are no kinks. Wire-tie all vacuum-hose connections to prevent them coming off under boost.



    Stage 4: Wiring up power sources and headlight signal

    Determine power and lights locations:
    • +12V switched from fuse box. Use a red wire to follow convention.
    • Ground from chassis point under the dash. Use a black wire to follow convention.
    • Lights signal will be pulled directly from headlights. Use a green wire to follow convention.



    Choose the circuit you'll be tapping into for +12V power. We used this instrumentation fuse (shown here with the fuse removed).



    This nifty little device, called an Add-A-Circuit, lets you get switched +12V directly from the fuse box, which is easily accessible. The two fuses are the original fuse (of the circuit you're tapping into, and a new fuse for the gauges. A 5A fuse is adequate for our triple-gauge and controller setup.



    After setting up the fuses in the Add-A-Circuit, attach an extension wire (16ga or 14ga is good) to it, and plug it into the fuse panel. Route the extension wire toward the gauges in the center console.



    Create a ground wire by attaching a decent-sized black wire (also use 16ga or 14ga) to a ring terminal. Screw the terminal directly to body/chassis ensure that you have excellent electrical contact. You may need to scrape or sand any paint to promote better electrical contact. This is important. Route the black wires towards the gauges in the center console and use wire-ties on this and the red wire to keep everything secure and out of harm's way.



    To get access to the passenger-side headlight, first remove the plastic overflow bottle by removing these 2 screws.



    Pull the headlamp bulb (for easier access) and connect the green wire to the switched (positive) side of the headlight. Use a multimeter to verify the correct wire. A blade-type tap-off connector works well for this. Route the green wire as appropriate and wire-tie as necessary to secure it.



    Stage 5: Connecting everything to the gauges



    Back in the dash, pull the power and sensor wires thru the center console. Connect the oxygen-sensor cable to the PLX controller.



    Since PLX says not to mount the controller in the engine bay, we decided to mount it in the center console. Solder on the power wires from the PLX controller to the existing power signals here. You could also mount the controller under the dash on eiher side if you wish.



    Attach the other side of the connector and matching (opposite-gender) pins, verifying the locations of each pin. Verify ALL wiring carefully and preferably test the signals at the connector with a multimeter. Then plug the connector halves together. Connecting improper signals to the gauges can damage them! Here, you can see the PLX controller as well.



    PLX does not provide any way to secure the control box, so we wrapped it in foam and tucked in the center console to keep it from moving around. Feel free to fabricate a mount for this if you prefer.



    Button up the center console.





    Stage 6: Cleanup



    Go back thru all wiring and secure with wire-ties as appropriate. Do the same for the vacuum hose, taking care not to crimp or kink the hose.



    At this point, program the AFR gauge and setup any other features on the gauges such as alarm levels. Also setup the brightness levels for headlights on and headlights off. Follow the instructions provided by VEI Systems for this procedure.

    At last, all gauges are operating.



    Another view of the gauges operating.



    All gauges off.



    http://www.teamcrd.com/projects/evotriple.html
    I <3 Nisei Engineering

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Those look awesome... where can i buy them?

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Carbon161 View Post
    Those look awesome... where can i buy them?

    Check this out http://42draftdesigns.com/categories...ts/tgp_evo.htm
    ______________________________

    Recaro | Momo | BBS | Bilstein | Brembo

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Thank you, but I was meaning the gauges, sry

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Daly City
    Posts
    4,098

    Default

    nice!
    2003 Evolution VIII

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    stockton 209
    Posts
    951

    Default

    very nice man good detail bro...
    Posted from my mobile device

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