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Thread: How to Polish Valve cover: X

  1. #1

    Default How to Polish Valve cover: X

    Do this at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any mishaps which may occur during your attempt for this how to.

    For those of you on a tight budget, but still want the bling, this how to may be for you. Overall the project is very simple, only time consuming depending on the tools you have. The more time you spend on it the better it will look. I spent 5 hours.

    Tools needed:

    There are various tools which can be used from ordinary high grit automotive sandpaper and your bare hands to high speed buffer attachments and jewlers polish. I will walk you through what I used; but the same if not better results can be had with less.

    To remove the valve cover:

    1. 10mm socket (deep or short extension)
    2. Ratchet
    3. Pliers

    Polishing Beginner:

    1. Hand(s)
    2. 1000 grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper
    3. 2000 grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper
    4. Bucket w/water
    5. Ultra-fine Steel wool
    6. Mother's Aluminum/Magnesium Polish (or equal)
    7. Terry/Microfiber cloth

    Polishing Advanced (mirror shine):

    In addition to above:

    1. Drill with polishing wheel atachment
    2. Dremmel tool with various polishing wheels
    3. Jewlers polishing compound



    Valve Cover:

    Wait for the engine to be completely cool.
    Start by removing the valve cover by disconnecting the weatherproof connectors from the wiring harness to the coil packs.



    Then, using your 10mm socket and ratchet, remove the bolts holding the spark plug coil packs and the packs themselves.



    Use your fingers or pliers to remove the wiring harness from the valve cover and PCV tubing.




    Remove the bolts on the valve cover and carefully lift it off.
    Cover the open valvetrain with a lint free cloth or paper towel.

    Polishing:

    Wipe as much of the oil out of the valve cover as possible with a lint free cloth.

    I started with the Mother's Polish with a quick rub down to see where the rough spots were.

    Tear pieces of 1000 grit paper and soak it in the bucket of water

    Begin sanding the valve cover in small painful circles avoiding going in straight lines where at all possible.



    Wipe down the cover with a damp cloth often to see where more sanding is needed.



    Continue until all areas are smooth.

    Use your 2000 grit paper next for a finer result.

    CAREFULLY use the ultra fine steel wool to work it even finer using faint pressure in rapid movements. The wool likes to tear apart into little pieces and can get under the cover and attach themselves to the residual oil. The steel wool is also an option.

    Do a final polish with Mother's polish and you're done! (GREEN)



    Advanced Polishing:

    For those who want that mirror shine, prepare yourself for even more work.

    Start by attaching the buffing wheel to your low speed drill.

    At full speed, run the wheel lightly against the jewlers polishing compound.

    Begin buffing the cover and apply more compound as necessary to the wheel.

    Wipe with a cloth to review the results and work more if necessary.

    If this is not enough for you, you may use your dremmel tool with the buffing attachment and like before, apply more compound and begin buffing the cover.
    Wipe as necessary and re-apply as necessary.

    The dremmel spins at a much higher RPM and creates a beautiful luster.

    Finish the job(for me, for now...) with a quick polish with Mother's.
    (RED)



    Re-install the valve cover by reversing the removal.

    TIPS:

    Take your time and section the cover into areas which you polish. Then blend those areas together.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Daly City
    Posts
    4,098

    Default

    that looked awesome! Thanks for sharing.. btw: you have an X now?
    Posted from my mobile device

  3. #3

    Default

    Can you do a how to on how to polish the entire exterior of the car? I want it looking like the Bugatti

    Thanks in advance
    ______________________________

    Recaro | Momo | BBS | Bilstein | Brembo

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    San Jose
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    Quote Originally Posted by RREVOVIII View Post
    that looked awesome! Thanks for sharing.. btw: you have an X now?
    Posted from my mobile device
    I am about to ask the same question, that looks like X engine bay.
    Powered
    380 WHP 362 lbs tq

    Evolution IX - Sold*

  5. #5

    Default

    You crack me up Vince!

    It looks okay right now. It is definitely a working progress. I had to put it back on since I needed the car for work the next day. I need to get a dremmel tool that will run without overheating after 3 minutes.


    Yeah, I got the X about a month ago after the accident. If you are interested I can pm you the details RRevo...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    1,046

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    Quote Originally Posted by cornercarver View Post
    Yeah, I got the X about a month ago after the accident
    sorry about your VIII but gratz on the X
    Powered
    380 WHP 362 lbs tq

    Evolution IX - Sold*

  7. #7

    Default

    ^Thanks bro

  8. #8

    Default

    Nice outcome, nice write up

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    yuba scuba
    Posts
    704

    Default

    do a few more for practice and then I'll let you polish the roadster valve cover
    Evolution IX MR
    Eunos NA
    Cube S

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    7,292

    Default

    no JR!!
    no more bling bling from u
    it's time you went to the dark side
    write up a thing about painting it black
    400WHP/382WTQ Stock Cams/Turbo/Clutch
    Tuned by Kings Fan/xXx4Reggie
    The Journal Of Lisa


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