Help! Problems after amp install

[evolyphics8]

I just had an amp and sub install at best buy and came across a problem with my brakes. I noticed they felt a lot stiffer as if someone had been pumping them. It feels as if there is a lot of pressure built up in the break lines and the pedal feel is not as responsive as before. I figured that it would go away after driving it, but it hasn't.

Also, the idle is a little rougher. It sounds as if I have cams installed and it idles below 1,000rpm. I'm not too concerned about this and kinda like the new sound as long as it isn't harmfull to the engine.

I drive my car everyday and have never had any of these problems. I don't think I can bring it back to best buy because I hadn't adressed these issues directly after the install. What sould I do?

[Matz]

I just had an amp and sub install at best buy and came across a problem with my brakes. I noticed they felt a lot stiffer as if someone had been pumping them. It feels as if there is a lot of pressure built up in the break lines and the pedal feel is not as responsive as before. I figured that it would go away after driving it, but it hasn't.

Also, the idle is a little rougher. It sounds as if I have cams installed and it idles below 1,000rpm. I'm not too concerned about this and kinda like the new sound as long as it isn't harmfull to the engine.

I drive my car everyday and have never had any of these problems. I don't think I can bring it back to best buy because I hadn't adressed these issues directly after the install. What sould I do?

I can't make an intelligent comment about the brake lines, though I don't see a connection between the two. My Evo idled at 850RPM before and after cams, so I don't think that's necessarily a problem. Perhaps the amp is drawing enough current to take away from the ignition system? You should try removing the main amp fuse (should be one between the battery and amp) to see if the condition improves.

Also, if you have a sub installed, try not cranking up the bass and see what happens. When the bass hits, there is more current draw from the battery. You can improve this by adding large capacitors to store charge for the hard hitting bass lines.

[evolyphics8]

Thanks for the info Matz. I'll probably start looking into capacitators or an optima battery. As for the breaks, I think i'll have them checked out by the dealer.

[nebolic]

I just had an amp and sub install at best buy and came across a problem with my brakes. I noticed they felt a lot stiffer as if someone had been pumping them. It feels as if there is a lot of pressure built up in the break lines and the pedal feel is not as responsive as before. I figured that it would go away after driving it, but it hasn't.

Also, the idle is a little rougher. It sounds as if I have cams installed and it idles below 1,000rpm. I'm not too concerned about this and kinda like the new sound as long as it isn't harmfull to the engine.

I drive my car everyday and have never had any of these problems. I don't think I can bring it back to best buy because I hadn't adressed these issues directly after the install. What sould I do?

you can bring it back to best buy if you want, if the dealer charges you for anything and they can somewhat pinpoint it to the install at best buy, best buy will refund the money the dealer charged you.

nebo

[SouthBayGSR]

I just had an amp and sub install at best buy and came across a problem with my brakes. I noticed they felt a lot stiffer as if someone had been pumping them. It feels as if there is a lot of pressure built up in the break lines and the pedal feel is not as responsive as before. I figured that it would go away after driving it, but it hasn't.

Also, the idle is a little rougher. It sounds as if I have cams installed and it idles below 1,000rpm. I'm not too concerned about this and kinda like the new sound as long as it isn't harmfull to the engine.

I drive my car everyday and have never had any of these problems. I don't think I can bring it back to best buy because I hadn't adressed these issues directly after the install. What sould I do?

Seems a little weird coming after a stereo install, but if it were power draw causing this to happen, it would go away if you had your stereo off. It almost sounds like a leaking/disconnected vaccuum line somewhere. Maybe they had to take something off when they wired through your firewall. Get under the hood and see if you can hear any leaks or anything.

[evolyphics8]

Bingo! I noticed they drilled through my firewall direclty above my brake pedal. They did not end up using this hole and just routed the amp wires through the drivers side door.

Trouble is, the "Service Engine Soon" light is on and there is a whistle sound as if something is leaking around the brake area. I cant find any leaks or disconnected wires from under the hood, but something sounds seriously leaking.

Remember, my idle is still rough and the brakes feel "spongy" and unresponsive.

Please tell me what to do!
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[Dr. Evo]

It is a problem with your brake vacuum booster (the flat, round par behind the brake master cylinder). Check to make sure that the vacuum hose to the booster is hooked up (it is about 3/4" in diameter). If it is hooked up at the booster and the other end at the motor, it sounds like they may have drilled through your booster.

[SouthBayGSR]

It is a problem with your brake vacuum booster (the flat, round par behind the brake master cylinder). Check to make sure that the vacuum hose to the booster is hooked up (it is about 3/4" in diameter). If it is hooked up at the booster and the other end at the motor, it sounds like they may have drilled through your booster.

I agree with this. I recently replaced the booster in an older honda that had the exact symptoms you are talking about! They would really have to mess up to damage the brake booster though (don't doubt best buy to pull that off though), check out the big hose Dr evo's talking about real good, that's gotta be your issue.

So they drilled a whole through your firewall, and then didn't use it?? Did they at least manage to pull the wires through the door cleanly?

[evolyphics8]

They were able to pull off the install and it looks flawless. I am just stuck with this problem. When I checked out the hole from inside the car, it is about 5" above the black round plastic piece on the located on the firewall inbetween the brake and the clutch pedals.

From the engine bay, it looks pretty inline with the brake booster.

All the hoses are intact with no leaks. I remember the installer saying that he drilled through my firewall and found "2 firewalls". He must have drilled through my firewall and one wall of my brake booster. When he tried to route the amp wire through the drilled hole, he must have ended up inside of my brake booster. Resulting in routing the wires another way.

My conclusion to this mess, there is a hole through my brake booster rendering it no good. The brembos work fine, its just that i have to apply bone-crushing force to stop the car.

I just hope my warrantee covers this so I can replace it at SRM!

[Dr. Evo]

Waranty will not cover this, Best Buy will. Remember, a warraty (on any product) covers DEFECTS , not damage. Take it back to Best Buy and tell them what you think happened. Tell them you are taking it to the dealer, and will instruct the dealer to charge Best Buy. Arrange it all BEFORE the dealer works on your car. At the dealership, don't try to hide what hapened. Just tell them that Best Buy just worked on it and you suspect that they drilled through your brake booster. Make sure he realizes that you won't be paying for any damage done by the install, and he should contact BOTH you and Best Buy about what he finds and what needs to be done to fix it. In fact, I wouldn't sign an estimate with any dollar amount on it, I have seen companies *like* Best Buy weasel their way out of these kind of repairs, leaving the owner of the car with the bill. If the service writer wants a signed estimate, tell him to get authorization for the diagnostic charge from the manager at Best Buy. This way if indeed it is damage they did, you are not responsible in any way for the charges to repair. If it is something else covered by warranty, the dealer should take care of that free (assuming your car is still under warranty).

[SouthBayGSR]

The problem is definately the booster. You're running without power brakes right now but they will still function but be careful!

I drilled a hole for my stereo wires close to the same spot your talking about, which is right next to that little round black plug. The best buy guy is right about the "two" firewalls. In that area at least, there is two pieces of sheetmetal to drill through I think about 1/5 of an inch or so apart from each other. I kind of find it strange though that the guys at best buy would drill from underneath the steering wheel through the firewall as opposed to drilling from the engine bay side, but they definately could have. This would obviously be the only way they could have drilled the booster. You should be able to tell by looking at it. Can you see the hole looking from the engine compartment? If not, does the hole on the inside look like it lines up with the booster?

[evolyphics8]

The hole obviously lines up with the booster. So I took my car bck to best buy and filled out a claim under their insurance. They told me to go to a dealer because they needed a diagnostic workup, so I went to El Cerrito Mitsu.

They (Ray and Chris)were very helpfull and ordered a new booster for me. $622!

The total with parts and labor was $1197!

I sure hope this works out for me and best buy ends up with that check!

[LEVIII]

When you took it in did the best buy people even look at your car? Hopefully so.

Since I have been installing professionally for about 6 years I have seen 3 brake boosters get drilled though (I didnt do any of them) but in every case my company paid for all parts and labor.

IF they wont pay keep on them cause they will eventually.